Building a Portable Outdoor Kitchen

 These have a wide variety of names in America, but essentially they're boxes designed for use as an outdoor kitchen. So I'll call mine POK_1, because it's the first iteration of my version.

Having seen a couple of videos I sat down and drew out my basic concept. I decided on 800mm as the overall  height, split equally between the base and the box. I thought this would give a reasonable working height. I'm 6'3", so I usually make things too high for other people. Hopefully not this time.

The end product was a little different to the drawing, but the overall dimensions didn't change at 400mm tall and deep and 600mm wide. 

All the wood, apart from a piece of 3.5mm ply was sitting around the workshop. The cabinet was made from 12mm ply and the drawers from some 9mm and 5mm ply I had lying around.

The top was glued and pinned to the sides as a butt joint, the sides were set in a rebate in the bottom panels with more glue and pins. I just thought it look a bit neater this way.

The doors were made as simple boxes, butt jointed, glued and pinned again, with a thin ply skin on the outside. My nail gun jammed and sprayed pins into the ply in random amounts, making quite the mess before I fixed it properly. As this was just a prototype I wasn't overly concerned. The biggest problem was the bow in the 12mm ply. I had to change the design to have a vertical divider to spread the top. For some reason I didn't notice the bow until after I'd glued the basic box together. Had I seen it, I'd have turned the top over and used the divider to pull it together rather than push it apart. 

Here I've assembled the box having cut grooves for the drawer runners using the table saw.

There are two fold out flaps to provide extra working space. Once the doors were made, I could move onto the base. This was made from 18mm ply using pocket hole joinery. It's designed to slip over the main box to make it more compact to carry and also to lock the doors shut.

It has a frame on which the main cabinet sits set about 6mm from the top.

It slides neatly into place and is very stable when used as the stand. I made a couple of simple drawers with finger pulls and a shelf to fi t into the right hand side. I also added a shelf to one door with a couple of retainers so anything stored there doesn't just fall out when you open the doors. The doors also act as supports for the top flaps.

Overall I'm quite pleased with the design, but it needs to be put to the test. After I'd finished it I decided to make a small table that would sit inside the top of the frame for carrying and then could be used as a small coffee table when out to keep things off the ground.

Building a mud kitchen

 I have two grandsons and decided to make a mud kitchen for them as a Christmas present. I toyed with the idea of taking a couple of pallets and cutting one down to make the top and sides and the other as the back. Instead of that I decided to make it from scratch using some pallet wood and some stud timber (CLS timber 63x38mm).

I started off with a simple drawing of what I thought it might look like and with some rough dimensions. 

The basic construction used butt joint reinforced with through dowels. The back splash was a separate piece to make getting into a car easier. Although the finished piece was only 1m tall and about 770mm wide.

I took the stud timber and cut the pieces to length before running them through the table saw to square them up. The off-cuts formed the bottom shelf.

The base was assembled sides first before adding the front and back rails. An off cut of the stud timber was used to set the height of the bottom rails and then the other off-cuts were used to make the bottom shelf. These were glued and pinned in place. The spacing was a bit of trial and error using pieces of MDF/ply until I found a good enough fit.

Once this was all dry it was sanded down and painted using a garden paint.

The top and backsplash were made from pallet wood. Several pieces were glued together to form the worktop. The backsplash was pinned and glued to the frame as individual strips.

A simple shelf was added with the "deliberate" mistake of putting the supports in the wrong place! Then more sanding and an exterior varnish to protect the wood.

Next I needed to make a sink and hob. The sink was made from a mixing bowl I picked up on Amazon. I drew round it then marked a line inset from the edge before cutting it out carefully with the jigsaw. The cut-out and a couple of other pieces of pallet wood were made into the hot plates. 

There are many ways to cut circles, but one of the quickest I've found is to use the table saw. A simple jig allows you to trim away the edges. You just need to go carefully. 

The control knobs were cut using a hole saw, a screw and washer allow them to turn freely. The finishing touch was to make the curved top and get a sign made. I used Etsy for the sign.

I'm really pleased with how this turned out. I ended up making a crate as storage space. I hope the boys enjoy playing with it as much as I enjoyed making it for them.

A BBQ Table: The design stage

 I've been asked to design and build a specialised table for a BBQ. Well actually it's more like an outdoor oven in the shape of a rather large egg. You can buy these things with a table, but my client has a very specific space so they need something made-to-measure.

I'm going to try something different and use some scaffold boards to build it. Here's the basic plan:

I'm still working on checking all the dimensions, but the basic idea is a rustic looking, sturdy table into which the "egg" sits. 

Cutting the hole will be interesting. I'll probably make a jig for my router and get a kitchen worktop router cutter and then just take it steady. 

It will need to be made in sections that can be put together on site because I don't have a truck to transport it and anyway I suspect it's going to quite heavy once assembled!

A couple of ideas for simple projects that I might try making to sell

 I'm not sure if, or even whether, I want to try and make money from woodwork. I'm certainly not going to pretend to be a master cabinet maker, but the more you do the better you get. So while watching a few videos recently, I thought I'd have a go at making a couple of things that might have a market if I can find it.

The first is a reproduction of a traditional wine crate. It's approximately 400mm square and it was quite simple to make. I bought a 2.4m board 18mmx144mm for there side panels and cut down some leftover cladding to make the slats. The slats are 40mm wide and about 7 or 8mm thick. 

The hand slots are cut using a template and a router fitted with a bushing. You can of course make them using a forester bit or a flat blade bit or even a hole saw and the use a jigsaw or coping saw to cut out the centre section. 

The second pice I made was a reproduction of an old rustic tool tote. Very simple to make from more of the 2.4m board. 

It's about 430mm long and 140mm wide. The end panels have a corner cut off. The panel is 300mm tall and the cut-off is 40mm in from the top edge and 140mm up from the bottom edge. I set up my tapering jig on the table saw and simple ran the pieces throng on both sides. The handle is 400mm wide and the whole thing is assembled using glue and brads. The end panels are actually screwed and glued to the base panel because they were a little bit cupped and I thought screws would give a more secure fixing for this prototype.

The finish is an "Antique Pine" wax.

The minimum I would want to sell something like this is probably around the £15 mark. I think I could produce them at around 4/hr if I batch processed them. I reckon each one has about £7-£8 worth of materials, so £15 would cover the costs and the time spent making them. I'm guessing the cost of materials would come down a little bit if I were to buy the wood to make say 10 of each in one go. But I'm not sure how fast I could batch them out!

A simple cupboard/enclosure for a hallway

 A friend asked me to build a simple cabinet for them to replace one the was falling apart. They delivered the old cabinet for me to use as a template and I started by doing a simple drawing using Graphic. I've tried Sketchup but never really got on with it for some reason.

Here's the basic idea I developed.

As you can see it's a simple double door cabinet. The challenge was to make it to the same dimensions as the original but because I was using 18mm MDF, the internal dimensions were the critical ones as long as there was space around the outside.

I decided to follow the original as closely as I could because I didn't know what it was covering (some electrical stuff I was told).

The cupboard was only 65mm deep.

I didn't want the rails and stiles on the doors to be too wide because I thought that would make the panel too narrow so I decided on 40mm and that seemed teamwork out okay.

Here's a picture of the cupboard with the doors clamped in place as a test fit before painting.

I think the proportions look okay. 

The next stage was sanding everything down and then preparing it all for painting.

I used a water based primer/undercoat, lightly sanded between coats. The client was doing the final painting, so I did there coats to get it to a reasonable finish. 

Once I was happy with the finish I added the hinges and door knobs. The hinges are simple flush hinges, but that's not the whole story. Initially I went to my local DIY store and got some hinges. Ther problem with them is that they are not that well made and some of the screws do not sit fully into the countersink. In fact so poorly made were these hinges that some of the countersinks barely cut the surface. 

The upshot of which is that the doors don't close properly.

The solution was to buy better quality hinges, sourced from a company specialising in ironmongery. Theres were thicker and far superior quality that the ones from the DIY store.

The inside of the original doors had hooks for keys. This posed a little bit of a problem because the inner panel was only 6mm thick and I had planned to put in some extra pieces into which the hooks could be mounted. Unfortunately 12mm wasn't quite enough to ensure the hooks didn't come through the other side, so I had to add an extra layer. In hindsight I could have designed this better, but I'm not sure how.

The final touch was to add a magnetic catch for each door and the job was done.

The panel doors came out okay. I cut the rebate for them on the table saw rather than setting up the router table. I think next time I'll probably use the router, the table saw was ok but it's a bit fiddly to to get the set-up correct. Still, it worked and the client is happy. 

Simple Storage for the Utility Room

 Our utility room is a mess. We have loads of stuff that needs sorting and the storage is a mixture of old bits of furniture that was in the garage already and shelves that we brought with us or bought to try and make better use of the space. 

The first step was to improve the storage around the washing machine and freezer. This was going to take the shape of some custom made shelves the would store basic item including the cat baskets!

I made this is two parts, a deeper section with two fixed shelves and a shallower version with one fixed shelf and two adjustable shelves (I decided not to have the three I initially put in the drawing). 

In case you're interested the drawing software is Graphic for Mac. It's very useful for creating simple 2D drawings for this sort of project.

The units were built using pocket holes which presented a challenge in the narrow unit because I didn't think about the drill/driver being too big to get inside the unit with the pocket hole driver bit in it. 

I got there in the end, but it was a real faff. The shelf pin holes were made using a Kreg jig. This is a very useful tool. A simple spacer (a piece of ply cut to size) helps to position the jig at its starting point and then you can drill a series of holes equally spaced. If you need more there's a locating pin to reposition the jig. You just need to take your time setting things up properly. I got my jig for about £35.

We've recently bought a battery powered lawn mower so I've attached the charger to the end panel of the unit and the batteries live on the shelf with the charger and battery for the trimmer we were given years ago. This gives us a nice, convenient way to store and charge the batteries.

The next thing we decided to make was a storage unit to fit between the freezer and washing machine.

Nothing too complicated, just a pull-out unit with storage for washing powder, water softener etc. Again pocket holes were used to secure the bottom to the front and back panels, and 30mm brad nails for the rails. 

I found some old castors from a previous project and a handle from a wardrobe I dismantled 8 years ago. The wood from the wardrobe was used to build a cupboard to hide some pipes and to construct one of my benches, so nothing goes to waste if we can help it!

Once finished, the unit slides nicely between the two appliances.

The next job will be to sort out the rest of the storage, making better use of the space. We might even be able to get into the cupboards currently buried behind the stuff we haven't sorted out yet!!

 

Making routed panels for drawer cabinets without a router!

I wanted to do a quick post about making panels with rebates in them without using a router. You still need at least a circular saw, but if you don't have a router you can make these panels using two layers of material. 

I chose 9mm and 6mm MDF because I had some in the workshop. 12 and 6 or two pieces of 9mm would give you an 18mm thick panel which would be the standard thickness I use to build cabinets.

I cut my base layer (9mm board) to the height of the finished panel (800mm) and to the width of two panels plus a bit of waste (1200mm). The 6mm sheet was cut into 1200mm by 74mm strips. I've posted before about how I used a saw board with a circular saw to make treatable cuts.

You need to make some spacers for assembly and I made mine 14mm wide. Just cut one piece long enough to split into three. Oh and I cut a 20mm wide strip to go on the bottom of the panel as a starting point. This also allows me to use an 18mm thick base or stretcher at the bottom and it leaves a 2mm gap to the bottom runner.

It was then a matter of using the spacers to position the 6mm strip, check it for square and glue and pin it in position. Move the spacers and repeat all the way up. Before you start pinning, mark up where you are going to cut the assembled panel into two pieces. I did this on the first 6mm board. This is where you don't want to put any pins! Saw blades don't like nails or screws.

Once the glue is dry you can cut the panels to width and make your cabinet.

So why 74mm? It just so happens that the cabinets I make to go under the benches work on an 88mm spacing so 74mm with a 14mm gap gives me 88mm. Of course it doesn't work with the 800mm panels, but they were made to fit into a different bench. 

If you don't want to use that much 6mm board, you could rip it to say 20mm wide and then use a wider spacer to position it. The starting point is to work out the internal height of the cabinet and then work out how many drawers you can fit in the space. I make my drawers from 12mm material, so I use a runner width of 14mm. 

Say I was building a cabinet with internal dimensions of 722mm, and I want to have space for 6 single height drawers in it. I subtract 2mm for the clearance at the bottom of the cabinet and divide 720 by 6. The gives me 120mm for each drawer space. A 14mm space for the runner leaves 106mm for the drawer. Then it's just a matter of cutting the runners and spacer to watch those measurements. Depending on how you make the drawer, you need to leave 2mm at the top so it doesn't bind on the drawer above.

These are trays rather than drawers but the principle is the same. It's basically a box with a base that runs in the slots in the side panel. Because these slots are made with a router they're a bit deeper than 6mm, but only by a 1-2mm. By sheer chance that meant the the sides of the drawers were 9mm in from the edge, so I cut a couple of 9mm spaces so I could position the sides in from the edge and then squaring it up to the front and back, I glued and pinned the base in place. 

I might take some better photos of a drawer and see if I can explain it better, but it's essentially the same process that I used in an earlier post but without the rebates to square it all up.

Building a flip-top tool cart

 I've seen plenty of examples of flip-top carts and have thought about building one for a long time. I have a disc/belt sander that could do with a more permanent home and I have and simple drill press stand for my old Black and Decker Mains power drill bought back in 19879/80. I made a bigger table stand for the drill years ago, but that could do with improving.

So I did a quick drawing in Graphic of my design. I'm quite tall (1.90m) so I like my tools and benched to be a bit higher than most people. My benches are 90cm tall, so I designed this flip cart to be about the same.

The body is made from 18mm ply with space for a drawer. The top is made from two pieces of 18mm ply  separated by 25mm, the diameter of the aluminium tube on which the top rotates.

The tube was more like 26mm or the drill bit was more like 24, either way it was too tight and needed adjusting. Not easy once the initial hole had been prepared. The moral of the story being don't drill the hole until you've got the tube!

Apart from that it all came together nicely. I used 50mm bolt catches on the four corners to lock the top in place. 

In order to get them lined up I installed the catches on one face then flipped the top and added the bit that receives the the bolt on the other side. I then added the other catches using the receiving bit to set the position of the bolt.

I didn't bother with any fancy drawer slides, just waxed the bottom of the drawer itself.

The belt sander is bolted to the top. I used M6 bolts. I counter-bored from the inside just enough to be able to hammer the bolts in. The drill press was just screwed down.

The top rotates easily and it's already been put to use. There drill press was tucked away in ne corner of the bench and often had accumulated bits and pieces on it, making it a pain to get out and set up. Now four bolts, a quick spin, and it's already for use. 

Star decorations from oak flooring

In the run up to Christmas I came across some designs for star decorations. Using some scrap oak flooring and some scrap from a shed I built, this is what I made. There are more!

I used three basic designs. An overlap style, an open star and a smaller closed version made from the offcuts of the open design.

 

Latest storage project for the workshop

 I've followed Ron Paulk on YouTube for a long time, ever since I first came across his workbench. If you haven't seen Ron's innovative SMART Woodshop then you need to set aside some time to watch him build a complete workshop into a trailer. The way he builds his drawer system is the inspiration behind this project and a previous drawer unit build. 

My goal for my workshop is fairly simple:

1. Be able to find the stuff I need by being better organised.

2. Get rid of all the tool boxes I'd accumulated. 

My goals for myself include:

1. Learning new ways of doing things.

2. Build better stuff.

3. Have fun in the workshop.

So this project involved getting rid of a tool box that has all my spanners and plumbing tools in it (well almost all); providing some storage for jig making bits and my large spring clamps that were sitting in a cardboard box.

Having cut a piece of 18mm mdf  to an appropriate size for the two sides, I began to layout some guides to rout the rebates for the drawers to slide in. (I had lots left over from another project. Normally I'd have used plywood for this, but the mdf was taking up space so it got used).

There was a complicated bit of maths needed because the bushes for the router are imperial and the cutters are metric. But the principle is easy enough. Once you know the offset of the outer edge of the bush and the outer edge of the cutter, you can work out how far apart the guides need to be in order to give your the correct width of rebate. In my case I needed my guides to be 10mm further apart than the rebate width.

It's important to take you time setting this all up nice and square and parallel. To keep the spacing correct I cut a couple spacer blocks and I pinned the guide pieces using 20mm brads.

Running the router up one side and down the other the rebates were cut quickly and neatly. I do have a jig I made for cutting rebates which I could have used, but getting it in the right position each time would probably have been slower than doing it this way. If I had a lot of cabinets to make I'd make a jig the same way Ron does in his videos.

Having cut the rebates I cut the two sides to width and then cut the top and the bottom for the carcass. It's important to note here that the bottom of the carcass goes inside the sides where's theta goes on top. Look closely at this photo and you'll see what I mean.

Using some scraps I checked my measurements for the drawer bases and the width of the drawers themselves. Next I cut a base to check the fit and when that was okay I cut 5 more and checked they all fitted in each slot.

With that done I cut some shallow rebates in the bases (3mm deep) to serve as guides when putting the drawers together. They help keep the drawer square as you glue them together. Again I used 20mm brads to pin the corner joints and then to pin the base to the sides. The front and back of the draw sit inside the sides so that you pin through the sides into the front.

Everything was test fitted before final assembly and I also cut a back panel for the unit from 9mm mdf and glued and pinned that to the carcass. I did thing about rebating the back to inset the panel but this is only a. workshop cabinet after all!

I made some simple handle from scrap, but to be honest I don't think mdf will be strong enough to last long term and I'll either make some from hardwood or just buy some. In my other build I cut hand pulls, but I wanted to try something different this time.

The deep drawer doesn't have to go at the bottom, it fits in all the slots except of course the vey top one. If I ever get to kit out a new workshop I'll make sure all my drawer cabinets are built to a consistent size so that any drawer will fit any cabinet. 

Here's the finished unit installed in the bench and with dividers in the drawer to separate the contents. These were made very simply. The dividers and spaces were cut to give a snug fit. To keep them in place the spacers had a strip of double-sided on the back. 

I'm pretty pleased with the way this one turned out. In a space where there was a metal toolbox and little else I know have all the extra storage for bits and pieces. Eventually I may label the drawers but for the time being I at least know it's in a drawer, whatever it might be!!

Trimming out the new roof windows

 We had some new roof windows fitted and I decided I wanted to trim them out rather than have the window fitters do it. There were moments when I began to regret the idea, but in the end we got it done and it doesn't look to bad. 

The problem was that whoever did the original windows didn't seem to like the idea of perpendicular and square. In fact one is so far out of square that in the end it wasn't worth the effort to try to put that right. 

The decision now is whether to leave them as they are, maybe applying a clear wax or varnish, or whether to paint them. I think paint, Anne thinks leave. Time will tell.

Making a simple fence system

I needed to make a simple fence system for a new bench top I made. Some time ago I incorporated an MFT-style top into a bench in my workshop. This is a bench top with 20mm holes set in a 96mm pattern over the surface. It allows precise 90, 45, 30 & 60 deg cuts to be made and the square up assemblies and a whole host of other things. It's quite the versatile bench system.

In the process of cutting some MDF for a project I had a rather large piece of 18mm left over, so I trimmed it to what I thought was a manageable size of 1800x900mm (turned out still to be rather heavy to carry around so not as 'portable' as I thought) and set about drilling it out in the 96mm pattern. I used the Parf Guide system and after a couple of hours I had a nice series of holes across the surface.

I toyed with a few ideas for making a fence and in the end decided to use some aluminium extrusion. I'd used the same type of thing on the bench in the workshop. The question was did I buy some more of the fence-dogs for this fence or did I use the ones I already had-simply moving them from one been to the other-or did I make something new?

Something new won the argument in my head so I made a prototype anchor that held the aluminium against a bench dog. I also made a simple sliding stop using MDF and some M5 track nuts and screw knobs.

These worked quite well. They held the extrusion in place, pulling it firmly against the bench dog and it was nice and square to the rest of the bench. The only problem was that using MDF in this way to make the clams was not the best option. They just felt flimsy and I thought there must be a better solution. 

Then I remembered the 3D printer and got to work designing the parts for 3D printing.

The end result is an effective clamping system and a smooth operating stop. I've drilled a couple of 20mm holes in my bench that houses my mitre saw so the fence can used there too.

All in all I'm very pleased with the end result. 

I swapped the hex head bolts for some with hex sockets.

Building a simple turntable for painting models

I'm not much of an artist but one of the things that I need to learn is how to paint and weather models for the railway. To make it easier a small turntable looks like a useful item to have. Now you can of course go out and buy one but I've got a workshop full of scraps of wood and stuff so I thought let's make one.

It's a simple enough design-a circular table on a square base. Both are made from 18mm ply that was lying around the workshop.

Cutting the circular turntable was interesting. I decided to do it on the table saw. I'd seen someone do this and thought I'd give it a try. It's fairly straightforward and produced a really good cut. I could have used a router and circle jig, but this was quicker to set up and do. you just have to be steady and not try to do too much too quickly. I have a 12mm base that sits in the mitre slot and I simple screw fixed the blank to it cutting off the corners and gradually cutting smaller and smaller pieces away until I got the circle.

The square base has a bolt through it to provide a spindle for the rotating table. It's held in place with a counter bored nut.

The rotating table has another counter bore into which a bearing has been pressed. The bearing is for a skateboard and is about 20mm in diameter. A washer over the nut provides a small amount of separation between the table and the base.

Because the bolt head isn't recessed into the base I glued and pinned four triangular feet to it. These were scraps from something else I made recently and they are 9mm ply.

I then put a liberal coat of wax on the base and the turntable surfaces that meet just to help.

I made a second one using just a screw through the top and washer between the base and turntable. This works okay too.

Extension to my MFT-style bench

I decided to build a small extension for my MFT-Style bench to support the waste side material so it didn't just fall on the floor after cutting. It's a really simple build but as ever there is quite a lot of designing and redesigning along the way to make it work how I imagined it.

The extension is very simple:

 The piece of MDF that forms the top is just something I had lying around and was about the right size. It sits in a rail made from a piece of softwood, also found lying around. The rail is made on the table-saw. I am so pleased I bought it!

There are a couple of supports and a strip of MDF that locate the extension in place. You can see these in the picture of the underside.

The timber supports have a rebate at one end that sits in a matching rebate in the vertical part of the rail.

My idea was to make this something I could put in place when needed and store out of the way when not needed. The simplest solution to how and where to store it that I could come up with was to make a couple of brackets and screw them to the legs of the bench on the end where the extension will be used.


It's out of the way but easily accessible and right where it needs to be.

I might yet build a slightly longer (or should that be wider) knock down extension that attaches in the same way but has its own fold out legs to support the other end.

The challenge as ever is where to stop it if I make it.

Building my new benches

By now it must be obvious that I decided to sort out the garage and make it more of a workshop. My old bench that I built many years ago had to be easy to set up and take down because I worked outside when the weather permitted. Now I had the garage space in which to work and it was just time to build a new bench.

The outside wall of the garage has pillars 1600mm apart, so I decided to build one new bench to fit between two pillars and then another bench the size of the MFT top to fit in the gap the other side of the pillar. I then decided I'd build my router table into the bench using the cabinet I'd built previously.

Here's a view along the length of the benches.

Overall I now have around 3M of bench space, 720mm deep.

Each bench has a simple frame made from stud timber available at my local DIY store (B&Q as it happens) and the bench top is 18mm MDF to match the MFT top. Once built they are finished with wax, although the router section is finished with 3 coats of a water-based varnish (purely because I wanted to try a different finish on the MDF when I made it).

The bench frame was constructed as two rectangles and the legs were fastened on the inside squaring it up as I went. A bottom shelf adds to the rigidity of the bench and it's certainly rigid and strong.

You can see how simple the frame is here. The bottom shelves were made from whatever I had left-over. This one is some OSB, the other bench has some 18mm ply I picked out of the off cut box at B&Q. I'm very grateful to whoever it was that didn't want the off-cuts, I got almost a full sheet of good sized pieces!

The work bench has a small vice attached, and I am planning to build a better woodworking vice for it. I also drilled some 20mm holes in the top so that I could use the bench dogs and clamps with it as well as the MFT style bench.



The MFT has a piece of aluminium extrusion on the front edge set just below the height of the top. I could have used T-track, but I bought a piece of extrusion to make a fence and decided to buy a second piece for the front edge. T-track would have been more flexible because it would take the track clamps. The extrusion is primarily intended for building CNC machines, but it makes a great fence.

 Here's the MFT with the fence. You can also see the bench dogs in their holder on the wall behind and attached to the fence is the flag stop.

So far it's all proved very useful. The built-in router table works okay. It has two slots for its fence. The fence has a couple of carriage bolts that drop through holes in the top and run in a couple of grooves.

So, how much did it cost? The timber was probably around £40 for the studs and a sheet of OSB, oh and there was the MDF for the router table and workbench.

The MFT top was £36 from CNCDesign and the extrusion was £34 from Ooznest for both pieces. There bench dogs came from Benchdogs as did the flag stop and the fence dogs. They came to around £68 in total.

The. various jigs and things I've made to go with the MFT are all made from scrap. The only thing I had to buy were some nuts and bolts to use with the track. A fully kitted Festool MFT3 comes in at around £600 new, £300-400 without the fence and guide rail extras.