tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-242168862024-03-19T02:52:24.676+00:00The view from hereThe meanderings of an eclectic mindRichardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.comBlogger1822125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-67174336765370469802023-01-02T12:32:00.003+00:002023-01-02T18:16:44.853+00:00No, we don't have a wood burner<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3QCXOS3EqugAAFmNiePWhueILChzJDTdplF7-Pa56k0rgEPTr0E5_cSiIkpgZmuHUP39RkGMCNuF8tLM4QIxG0hbRT2XpPO1vQW_H082rVAkbB28LLlfI7_Ks3oeQAIDCzeZBLqPTJhHHAePXOawkIwEgSwPaAxgDV10Ds2JmhsMjZrUUEgM/s850/Screenshot%202023-01-02%20at%2018.15.37.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="850" data-original-width="552" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3QCXOS3EqugAAFmNiePWhueILChzJDTdplF7-Pa56k0rgEPTr0E5_cSiIkpgZmuHUP39RkGMCNuF8tLM4QIxG0hbRT2XpPO1vQW_H082rVAkbB28LLlfI7_Ks3oeQAIDCzeZBLqPTJhHHAePXOawkIwEgSwPaAxgDV10Ds2JmhsMjZrUUEgM/s320/Screenshot%202023-01-02%20at%2018.15.37.png" width="208" /></a></div>I'm so glad we didn't decide to fit a wood burner when we bought our current house. Instead we took the chimney out and eventually had a new, high efficiency boiler fitted. 12 years on, if we were renovating it now, we would probably be looking at a heat pump, but that's a discussion for another day.<p></p><p>I ought to say that there was a time I would have gone down the wood burner road. Seeking to move away from fossil fuels, wood burning seemed more sustainable and less impactful on the environment. But then comes the bad news. Even wood burners that meet the most recent criteria for emissions are actually very bad for the environment. </p><p>One <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/oct/09/eco-wood-stoves-emit-pollution-hgv-ecodesign">study</a> shows that wood burning stoves that meet the regulations still emit 750 times more small particulate matter (PM2.5) than a heavy good vehicle, and that domestic wood burners are the single biggest source of PM2.5 air pollution in the UK, producing three times more pollution than road traffic. And the problem isn't just what goes up the chimney. These microscopic particles (PM2.5 refers to particles that are 2.5 microns in size) pass directly into the blood stream once they enter the lungs and every time you open the door of your stove, they are released into the room. </p><p>Along with the particulates two dangerous chemicals are also released. Benzene and formaldehyde are both known carcinogens and are by products of burning wood. </p><p>So they might look nice and cosy, they might be nice and warm and they be reducing the amount you have to spend on gas or oil, but they are not the long term solution to home heating and reducing our use of fossil fuels. </p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-4847238991827410742022-11-07T12:11:00.001+00:002022-11-07T12:11:05.895+00:00Building a Portable Outdoor Kitchen<p> These have a wide variety of names in America, but essentially they're boxes designed for use as an outdoor kitchen. So I'll call mine POK_1, because it's the first iteration of my version.</p><p>Having seen a couple of videos I sat down and drew out my basic concept. I decided on 800mm as the overall height, split equally between the base and the box. I thought this would give a reasonable working height. I'm 6'3", so I usually make things too high for other people. Hopefully not this time.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSnZXkMecD6MHcdNKHM09kof_VdP2N4ohBfcRYRym8tykSgUUHnvhd5sTa_rbfYAIFU8UGaTrdhA-mrlht-C3d2xgLvihLggyThAoHuT831LZeNcsKpx1XZeWH-SPLKofpagZZ7_OqN853YLqnUgliDsOkDZgvBZITnfFjbSL3_Dm8y4vhQE/s1024/Screenshot%202022-11-07%20at%2011.35.20.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="804" data-original-width="1024" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSnZXkMecD6MHcdNKHM09kof_VdP2N4ohBfcRYRym8tykSgUUHnvhd5sTa_rbfYAIFU8UGaTrdhA-mrlht-C3d2xgLvihLggyThAoHuT831LZeNcsKpx1XZeWH-SPLKofpagZZ7_OqN853YLqnUgliDsOkDZgvBZITnfFjbSL3_Dm8y4vhQE/s320/Screenshot%202022-11-07%20at%2011.35.20.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The end product was a little different to the drawing, but the overall dimensions didn't change at 400mm tall and deep and 600mm wide. </p><p>All the wood, apart from a piece of 3.5mm ply was sitting around the workshop. The cabinet was made from 12mm ply and the drawers from some 9mm and 5mm ply I had lying around.</p><p>The top was glued and pinned to the sides as a butt joint, the sides were set in a rebate in the bottom panels with more glue and pins. I just thought it look a bit neater this way.</p><p>The doors were made as simple boxes, butt jointed, glued and pinned again, with a thin ply skin on the outside. My nail gun jammed and sprayed pins into the ply in random amounts, making quite the mess before I fixed it properly. As this was just a prototype I wasn't overly concerned. The biggest problem was the bow in the 12mm ply. I had to change the design to have a vertical divider to spread the top. For some reason I didn't notice the bow until after I'd glued the basic box together. Had I seen it, I'd have turned the top over and used the divider to pull it together rather than push it apart. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHgOOb1jryqFBpy_BlMc0sNe2c9SN-Q8f1kqfAuarpbOl8b_MZGz0uZB2-TDGfnvxDEFtX-3XbkvTTKbmT6bi6SYj0UlCuNVUMKpdKuvwGDzSwUl4t-qeCMjIs0fI5euVYU-uCwK2NfB2ez-4F3rT7LV3gRj8-vdSiYhOWOPL1iy7I_neSgtk/s4032/IMG_2230.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHgOOb1jryqFBpy_BlMc0sNe2c9SN-Q8f1kqfAuarpbOl8b_MZGz0uZB2-TDGfnvxDEFtX-3XbkvTTKbmT6bi6SYj0UlCuNVUMKpdKuvwGDzSwUl4t-qeCMjIs0fI5euVYU-uCwK2NfB2ez-4F3rT7LV3gRj8-vdSiYhOWOPL1iy7I_neSgtk/s320/IMG_2230.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div>Here I've assembled the box having cut grooves for the drawer runners using the table saw.<div><br /></div><div>There are two fold out flaps to provide extra working space. Once the doors were made, I could move onto the base. This was made from 18mm ply using pocket hole joinery. It's designed to slip over the main box to make it more compact to carry and also to lock the doors shut.</div><div><br /></div><div>It has a frame on which the main cabinet sits set about 6mm from the top.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0N9o8l8KQJ78UyXVOYREStvpcy01u_nq97dVmzHhz5m0lGlwL-LlTgMX8wK9za0Eh49GgNbpAz36ZxzCv6K1Y_WLjn01_Q_b66yx6mwIx8kjhhBZiFCa_GSCRIrJHMvik_8PIokELsCUxvPQg-mWNMviWinUmLS7T79KzDltb_bv5yvDZH3U/s4032/CD68B754-3B8B-4A4E-A792-192C90573084.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0N9o8l8KQJ78UyXVOYREStvpcy01u_nq97dVmzHhz5m0lGlwL-LlTgMX8wK9za0Eh49GgNbpAz36ZxzCv6K1Y_WLjn01_Q_b66yx6mwIx8kjhhBZiFCa_GSCRIrJHMvik_8PIokELsCUxvPQg-mWNMviWinUmLS7T79KzDltb_bv5yvDZH3U/s320/CD68B754-3B8B-4A4E-A792-192C90573084.heic" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>It slides neatly into place and is very stable when used as the stand. I made a couple of simple drawers with finger pulls and a shelf to fi t into the right hand side. I also added a shelf to one door with a couple of retainers so anything stored there doesn't just fall out when you open the doors. The doors also act as supports for the top flaps.</div><div><br /></div><div>Overall I'm quite pleased with the design, but it needs to be put to the test. After I'd finished it I decided to make a small table that would sit inside the top of the frame for carrying and then could be used as a small coffee table when out to keep things off the ground.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hTLXy9BHWwSLFzMGp3OIh1--qz2LId8XvY0mxsy3uE1uocjKB-C_Ik-6y_TJFS9_Pv-w2FfoZ9EiPc-694_khOxpYTNyuB0DchmpIFtADQlptsl7qkfVZPQSNYT3TekHoyhIoFUjY6k84oef2qgeVf7DjIQD7YwlI8_MuROHZxTVLNut78I/s4032/7DF62315-FE70-4522-AA83-663C6D31F547.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hTLXy9BHWwSLFzMGp3OIh1--qz2LId8XvY0mxsy3uE1uocjKB-C_Ik-6y_TJFS9_Pv-w2FfoZ9EiPc-694_khOxpYTNyuB0DchmpIFtADQlptsl7qkfVZPQSNYT3TekHoyhIoFUjY6k84oef2qgeVf7DjIQD7YwlI8_MuROHZxTVLNut78I/s320/7DF62315-FE70-4522-AA83-663C6D31F547.heic" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimYzlUwgP6NAHF8twdG_UX9uIZHJtsWOF-9VmmUpDUesy967hpM9qNMPrD2NFeZWCUpfHMsvv7Lc1H9zvu30iXh6qsz2EdbOgilWv0kg95sVoBnea7D78hvt-10P_H_-CiMddPr5f7JV1_fXq-fZKPGrvQLzv_s6ZllgZ7dHgDKk2jCOccm38/s4032/633EDFE2-62C1-412A-B435-E346596AEBA8.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimYzlUwgP6NAHF8twdG_UX9uIZHJtsWOF-9VmmUpDUesy967hpM9qNMPrD2NFeZWCUpfHMsvv7Lc1H9zvu30iXh6qsz2EdbOgilWv0kg95sVoBnea7D78hvt-10P_H_-CiMddPr5f7JV1_fXq-fZKPGrvQLzv_s6ZllgZ7dHgDKk2jCOccm38/s320/633EDFE2-62C1-412A-B435-E346596AEBA8.heic" width="320" /></a></div></div><br /><br /><div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-70079716547927869592022-05-16T09:31:00.004+00:002022-05-16T09:31:34.653+00:00If I could start a movement<p> In previous post I talked about writing about an idea, an idea to start a movement. I suggested a very simple aim: To leave the world in a better state than we found it. </p><p>This is an environmental challenge but it is also a socio-economic one too. It's about a sustainable and equitable world. More and more wealth is being concentrated in a decreasing proportion of the population. A little bit of research shows that in 2018 there were over 2,000 billionaires worldwide. That was an increase of 40% in a 5 year period. But that's not the only significant figure. The wealthy saw their wealth grow at a staggering rate. Elon Musk, for example, added over $120 billion to his fortune in 2021 alone.</p><p>Clearly our economic systems are skewed and it might be time we asked whether billionaires ought to exist at all in an equitable economic landscape. But money and wealth are not the only problem. The burden of government policy also has a role to play as do some parts of the media. Much of our (UK) recent government policies have disproportionally impacted the poorer parts of our communities. One simple example is that if you're not earning enough to pay income tax, then either raising the threshold for paying tax or lowering the rate of tax (particularly at the high end) doesn't benefit you at all. Whereas rating the levels of VAT or duty does. </p><p>So something needs to change and we may need to be willing to pay more in order to make those changes. Of course some parts of the media will always present ideas that seek to bring about such change as a danger to the very fabric of our lifestyles. But the bottom line is that if we are going to make the sort of wholesale changes that are needed to avert the climate emergency and create a more sustainable and equitable future, it has to be properly funded and the rich are going to have to pay their share. </p><p>Having said all of that, what might this movement look like? Here are some thoughts.</p><p><b>What is the core idea?</b></p><p>To harness and leverage the skills, knowledge and influence of the “retired” generation to campaign and work to leave the planet in a better place than when we inherited it. Working together we add our collective voice to those of the younger generation to encourage, and support their efforts to bring about a more sustainable and equitable world.</p><p><b>The How</b></p><p>In no apparent order, here are some ideas:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Encourage personal change</li></ul><p></p><p>We can’t change the world as individuals and yet we can’t wait for someone else to charge it for us. The change begins with us. If we make small, individual changes (fly less often, choose a hybrid or electric car, lower the thermostat etc) we can contribute to a collective movement for change.</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Be trendsetters and let others follow</li><li>Challenge business and government to be bold</li><li>Invest ethically and environmentally</li><li>Learn to repair and recycle stuff (I saved us over £300 by repairing a Kenwood Chef mixer!)</li><li>Develop a course if you have skills to pass on. </li><li>Become better informed about climate science, economics, alternative energy.</li><li>Change one product you purchase regularly for a sustainable alternative.</li></ul><b>Bigger ideas?</b><br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Arrange web based seminars on topics like climate, finance etc. </li><li>Find resources to help inform/act/change</li><li>Build community based action groups</li><li>Engage with environmentally positive business/projects. Eg wind farms, solar farms.</li></ul><p></p><p>Can this happen? It can if we make the effort. </p><p><br /></p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-84058163146594401282022-05-02T08:06:00.002+00:002022-05-02T08:06:33.291+00:00Bigger things to do<p> Some things are simple, fairly inexpensive things we can all do to reduce our carbon footprint. Some things fall into a more expensive category. Here are some we've done.</p><p>1. Invest in a solar array. We had solar panels fitted in 2018 or 19 (I can't quite remember). We also had a battery storage system fitted (2.4Kw). Our array can generate up to 4Kw (the maximum you can have in the UK when it's connected to the grid system). The cost of the system fully installed was around £6000. We've saved around 33% on our grid electricity usage, dropping from 3500kwh to 2500kwh. At current rates, that's about £200 a year for us. We also export some power to the grid which I think gives us around £150 a year back. Over the expected lifetime of the system it's doubtful that it will pay for itself, but that's not why we did it.</p><p>2. Invest in a wind farm. Not as crazy as it might sound. In the UK there's an organisation called Ripple Energy. They allow you to buy shares in a cooperative that builds and runs wind farms. you get savings back through your supplier. Compared to solar panels it's cheaper and of course you can take it with you when you move unlike a solar array. There's a limit to how much you can invest, but because you can take it with you, it will pay for itself eventually. </p><p>3. Go EV. We bought an EV recently. Again it was an environmental decision rather than a financial one. Although having said that the EV we chose (Vauxhall Mokka e) was a very similar price to our Toyota CHR hybrid. The running costs are much lower (no road fund licence at the moment, no petrol), On the road in the UK it was about £32000 new. Not a cheap option. We had a home charge-point fitted and generally the car gets charged once a week or maybe 10 days. electricity prices as they are it costs around £10-11 to charge the car at home. That gives me around 160-180 miles. Compare that to my hybrid that would use about £50-60 of fuel and it's still good value.</p><p>4. Add cavity wall insulation. We've had a quote of £1400 to insulate our 3 bed-semi. </p><p>5. Replace the double glazing. We have DG but we could replace it with something more efficient for around £6000.</p><p>So none of these things are cheap, and some maybe more cost-effective or have a better RTO (return on investment). You have to decide what is best for you and why you are doing some things. Is it environmental or is it about reducing your bills.</p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-68512640165265900562022-04-26T12:52:00.006+00:002022-04-26T12:52:55.514+00:00What can "I" do?<p> This is a generalised "I" because it's really about what we can do, but it can't be me prescribing a list of things for you to do that I'm not prepared to do myself. Some things are high cost like solar panels or buying an electric car, but some things can be low cost like choosing something with less plastic packaging.</p><p>So here are a few things that we are doing or considering doing to change out footprint in the world.</p><p>1. Buy fewer clothes. It's astonishing to realise the amount of clothing that is wasted each year. About <a href="https://clothesaid.co.uk/about-us/facts-on-clothes-recycling/">30% of unwanted clothing ends up in landfill</a> in the UK alone. That's around £140M of useable clothing. </p><p>2. Use our heating systems differently. You'd think that some people think their heating system is designed to make their homes a tropical paradise. You could have an AI based thermostat system fitted (We have a Nest system) that learns your habits and controls you heating so that the house isn't heated when no one is there. Or you could simply turn the thermostat down when you go out and back up when you get home. And wear a jumper! </p><p>3. Buy shower gel and shampoo in larger quantities and refill those single use bottles or have dispensers that you refill. We buy ours in 5l bottles (yes they are plastic) and decant into smaller bottles for use in the shower. I reckon we've taken between 12 and 20 single use bottles out of our footprint by doing this.</p><p>4. Don't waste money on water. A number of companies (Smol, Homethings) sell cleaning products in tablet form. You just add the water rather than paying for it and transporting it home. We haven't done this yet, but it's definitely on the list to explore.</p><p>There are just four ideas. There's plenty more we can be doing as individuals got have a positive impact on our planet. The plastic problem won't go away overnight, but we can do something about it. It is not an overwhelming problem without any workable solutions. We just need to make some choices.</p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-47330274555607898832022-04-21T07:54:00.001+00:002023-01-02T11:34:40.960+00:00A Change of Direction<p> This blog has always been a bit of a mixture of things. I've talked about woodwork, railway modelling, theology and probably a few things I can't even remember. I've also used it as a place to store ideas, articles and links. Writing that makes me realise that at the very least this blog reflects who I am and how my life has changed over the decades.</p><p>So I'm going to add a new stream to my thoughts. There's a project idea that's been wandering aimlessly around my mind for some time now. My background is quite diverse, but work began in R&D after completing my degree in Environmental Science and Chemistry. A lot has changed since then but what remains true, and has become more urgent, is that we are having a deeply damaging impact on the environment and time is running out to do something about it. It is that serious.</p><p>The problem is that although we know we must act, we're not sure anything we do as individuals will make a difference. I had this conversation with a friend of mine some time ago. He was very supportive of the things I was doing because I knew things needed to change and I wanted to be part of the change. But his attitude was almost to suggest that I was wasting my time because one person can't make a difference.</p><p>Well I think otherwise. One person can make a difference and, if that one person can inspire another, then two people can make twice the difference. It's a matter of simple maths. One becomes two, then four then eight and the change becomes exponential. </p><p>So what's my change of direction? Well, I'm going to start writing about an idea I have for a movement. It sounds grand that way, but why not? Why not start a movement? The movement has a simple aim: To leave the world in a better state than we found it. This is an environmental challenge but it is also a socio-economic one too. It's about a sustainable and equitable world. </p><p>I know that this blog has very little traction and very few people stumble across it. I'm not looking to become well-known, I just want my grandsons to inherit a better world. Perhaps you will join me on the adventure.</p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-53665972197298770182021-12-19T10:11:00.000+00:002021-12-19T10:11:01.652+00:00Building a mud kitchen<p> I have two grandsons and decided to make a mud kitchen for them as a Christmas present. I toyed with the idea of taking a couple of pallets and cutting one down to make the top and sides and the other as the back. Instead of that I decided to make it from scratch using some pallet wood and some stud timber (CLS timber 63x38mm).</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEifkJXlhwDz8uho89FU_j_UJ357F0IHBXQnDRRJV3vLvVrtf7okPT7iT8WsfwOkRfSq-zleozsTpQ2NhC7YwIEBRajqJ5JMg22TStl2836RUhf23WRE_maO1B6lkjfGcQPjMStQGCyOG2hGEZLl_ExLiOWfl3M1HMJBCeNHVE6CadiGC_uyzQc=s1030" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="802" data-original-width="1030" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEifkJXlhwDz8uho89FU_j_UJ357F0IHBXQnDRRJV3vLvVrtf7okPT7iT8WsfwOkRfSq-zleozsTpQ2NhC7YwIEBRajqJ5JMg22TStl2836RUhf23WRE_maO1B6lkjfGcQPjMStQGCyOG2hGEZLl_ExLiOWfl3M1HMJBCeNHVE6CadiGC_uyzQc=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br />I started off with a simple drawing of what I thought it might look like and with some rough dimensions. <p></p><p>The basic construction used butt joint reinforced with through dowels. The back splash was a separate piece to make getting into a car easier. Although the finished piece was only 1m tall and about 770mm wide.</p><p>I took the stud timber and cut the pieces to length before running them through the table saw to square them up. The off-cuts formed the bottom shelf.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjLSE3L-pJM2-ayWrL73V-t5CD5iZv8on-rI-tlUtSxvM8NqvPcppsbiWE1FSLX-Nl8sVm-03RRIttN76Fh43eKttzbwW0J15oIc0zFHT1t-sAe6XYZ3ri8_rjdewsqs0puWsRmNaFDWfmqeTr5eA6Np6Z64Y4b3EFSLtVzOxP4nCJkYZ5tMfQ=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjLSE3L-pJM2-ayWrL73V-t5CD5iZv8on-rI-tlUtSxvM8NqvPcppsbiWE1FSLX-Nl8sVm-03RRIttN76Fh43eKttzbwW0J15oIc0zFHT1t-sAe6XYZ3ri8_rjdewsqs0puWsRmNaFDWfmqeTr5eA6Np6Z64Y4b3EFSLtVzOxP4nCJkYZ5tMfQ=s320" width="240" /></a></div>The base was assembled sides first before adding the front and back rails. An off cut of the stud timber was used to set the height of the bottom rails and then the other off-cuts were used to make the bottom shelf. These were glued and pinned in place. The spacing was a bit of trial and error using pieces of MDF/ply until I found a good enough fit.<br /><p></p><p>Once this was all dry it was sanded down and painted using a garden paint.</p><p>The top and backsplash were made from pallet wood. Several pieces were glued together to form the worktop. The backsplash was pinned and glued to the frame as individual strips.</p><p>A simple shelf was added with the "deliberate" mistake of putting the supports in the wrong place! Then more sanding and an exterior varnish to protect the wood.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiNvAKdxtmWvRW_rUUwZa5ZZ0sz3Bqw5M6YCCh8_YTFLIqKHXrhl3LoezgnpET_J3C0YywTCwnzsRZije2gM3UO6_rCqm27Hxf2PWgsmbUyTl8827ZbFCOsx39sT3924-2ITlqMpJzYXZt-hwLBqAebxNT53CZ1RuoVfT3VtHLJcVuTu3g91xY=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiNvAKdxtmWvRW_rUUwZa5ZZ0sz3Bqw5M6YCCh8_YTFLIqKHXrhl3LoezgnpET_J3C0YywTCwnzsRZije2gM3UO6_rCqm27Hxf2PWgsmbUyTl8827ZbFCOsx39sT3924-2ITlqMpJzYXZt-hwLBqAebxNT53CZ1RuoVfT3VtHLJcVuTu3g91xY=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Next I needed to make a sink and hob. The sink was made from a mixing bowl I picked up on Amazon. I drew round it then marked a line inset from the edge before cutting it out carefully with the jigsaw. The cut-out and a couple of other pieces of pallet wood were made into the hot plates. </p><p>There are many ways to cut circles, but one of the quickest I've found is to use the table saw. A simple jig allows you to trim away the edges. You just need to go carefully. </p><p><br /></p><p>The control knobs were cut using a hole saw, a screw and washer allow them to turn freely. The finishing touch was to make the curved top and get a sign made. I used Etsy for the sign.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiTXRftuLziH3I0xmHCrgpsBlNSDFvuj3X00xGE0tZUG67m_PfPpNdFZi5alSKuigdsD4j4o22vRmOsUPKfRuXIOcw0_eLPDL4_YBKbwmJZohPu-2CYSCmOOdyv6ApCbBGEVOR_niSlEUeAHI0QVsIdEcVC0pyi9AeZ9FMLKicyGxp5MksmZjY=s3671" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3671" data-original-width="2790" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiTXRftuLziH3I0xmHCrgpsBlNSDFvuj3X00xGE0tZUG67m_PfPpNdFZi5alSKuigdsD4j4o22vRmOsUPKfRuXIOcw0_eLPDL4_YBKbwmJZohPu-2CYSCmOOdyv6ApCbBGEVOR_niSlEUeAHI0QVsIdEcVC0pyi9AeZ9FMLKicyGxp5MksmZjY=s320" width="243" /></a></div><br /><p>I'm really pleased with how this turned out. I ended up making a crate as storage space. I hope the boys enjoy playing with it as much as I enjoyed making it for them.</p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-62265036621053755432021-04-27T06:14:00.004+00:002021-04-27T06:14:35.947+00:00Disciplined Choices: The Search for Good Habits<p> I seem the remember reading somewhere that it takes 3 months to build a new habit. I assume that was a good habit because a bad habit takes only a few seconds in my experience! And therein lies the problem. As far as I can tell, and from my own experience, some good habits don't just take time to become fixed, they take discipline. A lot of discipline, and quite a bit of failure too.</p><p>I'd argue that failure is possibly an intrinsic part of the process of learning the importance of discipline. You learn, through failure, that will power is the stuff of dreams whereas discipline belongs to the world of reality. Some people think that the two are synonymous, but I'm not convinced. </p><p>When I changed my eating habits some years ago I was told I must have a lot of will power, but that simply wasn't true. In fact I'd say I had very little will power at all. What I did have was a goal, some data and the ability to make disciplined choices. Every day began with a disciplined choice and proceeded with a series of discipline choices. No magic bullet, no trying to suppress cravings. Just a series of choices.</p><p>Any good habits I now have are sustained by disciplined choices. That's the essential difference between good and bad habits. Bad habits take no discipline at all. Good habits demand continued vigilance. It's so easy to skip a day which then becomes two days and so on. Being lazy takes no effort, dragging yourself out of bed on a cold, wet, dark November morning to run or walk a few miles requires a massive effort for most of us. Who wouldn't rather curl up under a warn blanket than have freezing rain driving into your face? </p><p>So how do you become a disciplined choice maker? At the risk of sounding trite or simplistic, you just do it. You set a goal, and then make decisions that support that goal. If you want to walk 10k steps a day, then make choices that help you achieve that goal. It might mean getting up 30 minutes earlier so you can walk to the station rather than catch the bus or get a lift. </p><p>Being a disciplined choice maker goes beyond weight loss or exercise or giving up smoking etc. It can be about something as simple of developing a new skill, learning a language. Or it could be about becoming an encourager rather than a critic, reading 10 books a year, keeping a journal. Whatever it is I'm pretty sure that it will take discipline to achieve.</p><p>And when you fail? Well you just start over. Every day is a new opportunity to make new choices. If you make it all about will power it becomes easy to succumb to the idea that you just don't have enough of it to succeed. On the other hand everyone has the capacity to make disciplined choices. Even you. Even me.</p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-82895651244618041532021-04-20T08:17:00.001+00:002021-04-20T08:17:28.408+00:00Quick update on the table<p> Here's a photo of the table with the finish applied and the "Egg" installed!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4KpNB_9jga7D5Egz4Pjw15KBIU-mlb7XE62jcPXY5vXhIa0c-vDIC4BS1mgKdvBsydfESTYWXbYqb7wGBLzd5AOnqoYS6Hap1AXUnYTS-DkAIi32umKBXvVaR34cavN1lYNchKw/s1600/73A0D799-80E7-4666-8226-F607101F0949.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4KpNB_9jga7D5Egz4Pjw15KBIU-mlb7XE62jcPXY5vXhIa0c-vDIC4BS1mgKdvBsydfESTYWXbYqb7wGBLzd5AOnqoYS6Hap1AXUnYTS-DkAIi32umKBXvVaR34cavN1lYNchKw/s320/73A0D799-80E7-4666-8226-F607101F0949.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-24621997270491769882021-04-17T09:11:00.001+00:002021-04-17T09:11:37.055+00:00BBQ Table Completed<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRC6hDz56VInk9rVEKyvhNVO3wwvYRfizsOgEoW14kwAAQK92R6Mnv2yPRhw4OQJyGiuf7-Hvgh-oN7dmgp-2pjx-ffrdrm5bP1UNqKkg7Nl9kXT9LiBmCWQ_e9DTURa3170m8A/s2048/50118BE3-818E-4610-9F72-3973EDC731B9.heic" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRC6hDz56VInk9rVEKyvhNVO3wwvYRfizsOgEoW14kwAAQK92R6Mnv2yPRhw4OQJyGiuf7-Hvgh-oN7dmgp-2pjx-ffrdrm5bP1UNqKkg7Nl9kXT9LiBmCWQ_e9DTURa3170m8A/s320/50118BE3-818E-4610-9F72-3973EDC731B9.heic" /></a></div>To be honest it's not really a BBQ table, it's actually for one of those outdoor oven/grill things that look like a rather large egg as I said before, but I'm not sure what else to call it.<div><br /></div><div>In the end I made it from reject scaffold boards, some of which had some significant splits in them. I managed to get everything I needed cut from 5 boards (3900mm long). </div><div><br /></div><div>I cut the hole using a jigsaw in the end. Making a circle cutting jig for the router would have given a neater result, but it will be covered by a lip on the oven and any unevenness in the cut adds to the rustic charm!</div><div><br /></div><div>I filled some of the cracks with hot melt glue, which worked ok, but it needs some slower curing glue if that's possible. The glue sticks I've got set very quickly and it left a lot of clean-up work to be done. I've seen a hot melt system for repairs and filling, so I might look at getting one of those to try for the next project. </div><div><br /></div><div>The client is applying the finish and it will be interesting to see how it looks after that has been done and the oven is in place. </div><div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-65602545439970109442021-03-30T10:56:00.004+00:002021-03-30T10:56:59.552+00:00A BBQ Table: The design stage<p> I've been asked to design and build a specialised table for a BBQ. Well actually it's more like an outdoor oven in the shape of a rather large egg. You can buy these things with a table, but my client has a very specific space so they need something made-to-measure.</p><p>I'm going to try something different and use some scaffold boards to build it. Here's the basic plan:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3_8ZUga9n9UJhGBrCkc_-mY-Nj7g_yDiGJXh3EYZt2gPDopIl_XGHpbW2HjH73CQ4Up-QGvsJAyNVyMnaQPEotJL0hJuFN4veTxKXfY0eGJxUeerEFyyQ08zFrFLEO51NYD3ahw/s1658/Screenshot+2021-03-30+at+11.49.34.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1142" data-original-width="1658" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3_8ZUga9n9UJhGBrCkc_-mY-Nj7g_yDiGJXh3EYZt2gPDopIl_XGHpbW2HjH73CQ4Up-QGvsJAyNVyMnaQPEotJL0hJuFN4veTxKXfY0eGJxUeerEFyyQ08zFrFLEO51NYD3ahw/s320/Screenshot+2021-03-30+at+11.49.34.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>I'm still working on checking all the dimensions, but the basic idea is a rustic looking, sturdy table into which the "egg" sits. </p><p>Cutting the hole will be interesting. I'll probably make a jig for my router and get a kitchen worktop router cutter and then just take it steady. </p><p>It will need to be made in sections that can be put together on site because I don't have a truck to transport it and anyway I suspect it's going to quite heavy once assembled!</p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-92119656614974814122021-03-11T08:40:00.002+00:002021-03-11T08:40:37.004+00:00A couple of ideas for simple projects that I might try making to sell<p> I'm not sure if, or even whether, I want to try and make money from woodwork. I'm certainly not going to pretend to be a master cabinet maker, but the more you do the better you get. So while watching a few videos recently, I thought I'd have a go at making a couple of things that might have a market if I can find it.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndIpjO9ZiQ3PZYQxZDQc4d5s1d0O3qHnwNxqyO7arh7sQoqaYZecEGEG_UPiGiXEtdQL2yWJu72Yi_YXBVuai_hZ7yWHZ_OZUohLrxxM8yAX7D72TXO7IhdiZl2tyPsZdqlTg5w/s2048/1A589D6D-8A59-45AB-839D-F7F56FF0DD31.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndIpjO9ZiQ3PZYQxZDQc4d5s1d0O3qHnwNxqyO7arh7sQoqaYZecEGEG_UPiGiXEtdQL2yWJu72Yi_YXBVuai_hZ7yWHZ_OZUohLrxxM8yAX7D72TXO7IhdiZl2tyPsZdqlTg5w/w150-h200/1A589D6D-8A59-45AB-839D-F7F56FF0DD31.heic" width="150" /></a></div>The first is a reproduction of a traditional wine crate. It's approximately 400mm square and it was quite simple to make. I bought a 2.4m board 18mmx144mm for there side panels and cut down some leftover cladding to make the slats. The slats are 40mm wide and about 7 or 8mm thick. <p></p><p>The hand slots are cut using a template and a router fitted with a bushing. You can of course make them using a forester bit or a flat blade bit or even a hole saw and the use a jigsaw or coping saw to cut out the centre section. </p><p>The second pice I made was a reproduction of an old rustic tool tote. Very simple to make from more of the 2.4m board. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUA9o4KeJKqmPJGSUYfd2SVWZo15cYUi0rkTZmjBdhpcUaLxJMdpr4gneUVjZhDRKxGDFx5qsys9u2vl40ZttceO_ssDw9H7AljGIgBYjSqin0O_llIjnOPcfvyXo5Dd1p_RzCfg/s2048/A89C3554-805F-4F01-9309-402413001131.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUA9o4KeJKqmPJGSUYfd2SVWZo15cYUi0rkTZmjBdhpcUaLxJMdpr4gneUVjZhDRKxGDFx5qsys9u2vl40ZttceO_ssDw9H7AljGIgBYjSqin0O_llIjnOPcfvyXo5Dd1p_RzCfg/w200-h150/A89C3554-805F-4F01-9309-402413001131.heic" width="200" /></a></div>It's about 430mm long and 140mm wide. The end panels have a corner cut off. The panel is 300mm tall and the cut-off is 40mm in from the top edge and 140mm up from the bottom edge. I set up my tapering jig on the table saw and simple ran the pieces throng on both sides. The handle is 400mm wide and the whole thing is assembled using glue and brads. The end panels are actually screwed and glued to the base panel because they were a little bit cupped and I thought screws would give a more secure fixing for this prototype.<p></p><p>The finish is an "Antique Pine" wax.</p><p>The minimum I would want to sell something like this is probably around the £15 mark. I think I could produce them at around 4/hr if I batch processed them. I reckon each one has about £7-£8 worth of materials, so £15 would cover the costs and the time spent making them. I'm guessing the cost of materials would come down a little bit if I were to buy the wood to make say 10 of each in one go. But I'm not sure how fast I could batch them out!<br /><br /></p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-74648589458411551742021-02-26T11:02:00.004+00:002021-02-26T11:02:58.350+00:00A simple cupboard/enclosure for a hallway<p> A friend asked me to build a simple cabinet for them to replace one the was falling apart. They delivered the old cabinet for me to use as a template and I started by doing a simple drawing using Graphic. I've tried Sketchup but never really got on with it for some reason.</p><p>Here's the basic idea I developed.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ80fpNNPIaXFnKQOFWMCLhN22JZtus3pNgUT9cop3BQMDr8oT5Vt5KoROMP64Ec5K18J07lsc5KVso4I44xWEcvN-d89f8rCvkIprL0qVedP1WyVmKHlooYbZtZZjZ71x6zRONw/s570/Screenshot+2021-02-26+at+10.38.13.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="348" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ80fpNNPIaXFnKQOFWMCLhN22JZtus3pNgUT9cop3BQMDr8oT5Vt5KoROMP64Ec5K18J07lsc5KVso4I44xWEcvN-d89f8rCvkIprL0qVedP1WyVmKHlooYbZtZZjZ71x6zRONw/s320/Screenshot+2021-02-26+at+10.38.13.png" /></a></div><br /><p>As you can see it's a simple double door cabinet. The challenge was to make it to the same dimensions as the original but because I was using 18mm MDF, the internal dimensions were the critical ones as long as there was space around the outside.</p><p>I decided to follow the original as closely as I could because I didn't know what it was covering (some electrical stuff I was told).</p><p>The cupboard was only 65mm deep.</p><p>I didn't want the rails and stiles on the doors to be too wide because I thought that would make the panel too narrow so I decided on 40mm and that seemed teamwork out okay.</p><p>Here's a picture of the cupboard with the doors clamped in place as a test fit before painting.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFopJVytf1-oRwB4INj7kmhIb7TK9L-ditkyGJdgblXCbNagOBTvWT7710Rg-cVFolO1fylLoD3TrDs7UUHXenVQrenrEWKHiXcGGnAWIBwZ_Snz9sjqJ7P2iZCv1ApBt54dyOZA/s2048/9A4F2929-6A74-44AD-8E28-8847A9953D1B.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFopJVytf1-oRwB4INj7kmhIb7TK9L-ditkyGJdgblXCbNagOBTvWT7710Rg-cVFolO1fylLoD3TrDs7UUHXenVQrenrEWKHiXcGGnAWIBwZ_Snz9sjqJ7P2iZCv1ApBt54dyOZA/s320/9A4F2929-6A74-44AD-8E28-8847A9953D1B.heic" /></a></div>I think the proportions look okay. <div><br /></div><div>The next stage was sanding everything down and then preparing it all for painting.<br /><p>I used a water based primer/undercoat, lightly sanded between coats. The client was doing the final painting, so I did there coats to get it to a reasonable finish. </p><p>Once I was happy with the finish I added the hinges and door knobs. The hinges are simple flush hinges, but that's not the whole story. Initially I went to my local DIY store and got some hinges. Ther problem with them is that they are not that well made and some of the screws do not sit fully into the countersink. In fact so poorly made were these hinges that some of the countersinks barely cut the surface. </p><p>The upshot of which is that the doors don't close properly.</p><p>The solution was to buy better quality hinges, sourced from a company specialising in ironmongery. Theres were thicker and far superior quality that the ones from the DIY store.</p><p>The inside of the original doors had hooks for keys. This posed a little bit of a problem because the inner panel was only 6mm thick and I had planned to put in some extra pieces into which the hooks could be mounted. Unfortunately 12mm wasn't quite enough to ensure the hooks didn't come through the other side, so I had to add an extra layer. In hindsight I could have designed this better, but I'm not sure how.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-832Pcso8rswieQYCUMlHTHVmrXhiEtvC7RIH9ZxgczBtAtRuRMD97gMkR8Z7jvGuTaaaNVhWSxVV5FMquoZkUtSwIqIMJVNJR30-naPHj2m91g6HBDaP5xYVksilCL9siDwRA/s2048/23684496-D7D2-4FE0-AB7F-25C5BA66E4E5.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-832Pcso8rswieQYCUMlHTHVmrXhiEtvC7RIH9ZxgczBtAtRuRMD97gMkR8Z7jvGuTaaaNVhWSxVV5FMquoZkUtSwIqIMJVNJR30-naPHj2m91g6HBDaP5xYVksilCL9siDwRA/s320/23684496-D7D2-4FE0-AB7F-25C5BA66E4E5.heic" /></a></div><p>The final touch was to add a magnetic catch for each door and the job was done.</p><p>The panel doors came out okay. I cut the rebate for them on the table saw rather than setting up the router table. I think next time I'll probably use the router, the table saw was ok but it's a bit fiddly to to get the set-up correct. Still, it worked and the client is happy. </p><p><br /></p></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-24718721674844052402021-02-04T09:15:00.001+00:002021-02-04T09:15:23.360+00:00Simple Storage for the Utility Room<p> Our utility room is a mess. We have loads of stuff that needs sorting and the storage is a mixture of old bits of furniture that was in the garage already and shelves that we brought with us or bought to try and make better use of the space. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8dWErl_0YZNxQA_fOBj-K870tj_5C8FDE0528h0-LdUm4MLa78dGbzFEhMdNXH_f7G-fXiPUHzlAbteSUqaIXBcYze4E77o-TAUXxQlaVEHCLDh13ZgJdyEweiQwiVoraIrZUUQ/s1682/Screenshot+2021-02-04+at+08.24.45.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1194" data-original-width="1682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8dWErl_0YZNxQA_fOBj-K870tj_5C8FDE0528h0-LdUm4MLa78dGbzFEhMdNXH_f7G-fXiPUHzlAbteSUqaIXBcYze4E77o-TAUXxQlaVEHCLDh13ZgJdyEweiQwiVoraIrZUUQ/s320/Screenshot+2021-02-04+at+08.24.45.png" width="320" /></a></div><br />The first step was to improve the storage around the washing machine and freezer. This was going to take the shape of some custom made shelves the would store basic item including the cat baskets!<p></p><p>I made this is two parts, a deeper section with two fixed shelves and a shallower version with one fixed shelf and two adjustable shelves (I decided not to have the three I initially put in the drawing). </p><p>In case you're interested the drawing software is <a href="https://graphic.com">Graphic for Mac</a>. It's very useful for creating simple 2D drawings for this sort of project.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Iv1WnGrqF9u7ZT0wOcHhEDHGQWv965PNLzFg2RTQ9NJSZJY7LszouoYTP2Svklw8sl7lqBvfJgjiRCcCPvigw_SPlb1vw0kWrjF1nOI_tdurQS1hNmvzlk861WWK0e1y7x9a1g/s2048/2DBDA63A-D527-4E52-B59E-EF913D1EC0B8.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Iv1WnGrqF9u7ZT0wOcHhEDHGQWv965PNLzFg2RTQ9NJSZJY7LszouoYTP2Svklw8sl7lqBvfJgjiRCcCPvigw_SPlb1vw0kWrjF1nOI_tdurQS1hNmvzlk861WWK0e1y7x9a1g/w150-h200/2DBDA63A-D527-4E52-B59E-EF913D1EC0B8.heic" width="150" /></a></div>The units were built using pocket holes which presented a challenge in the narrow unit because I didn't think about the drill/driver being too big to get inside the unit with the pocket hole driver bit in it. <p></p><p></p>I got there in the end, but it was a real faff. The shelf pin holes were made using a Kreg jig. This is a very useful tool. A simple spacer (a piece of ply cut to size) helps to position the jig at its starting point and then you can drill a series of holes equally spaced. If you need more there's a locating pin to reposition the jig. You just need to take your time setting things up properly. I got my jig for about £35.<p></p><p>We've recently bought a battery powered lawn mower so I've attached the charger to the end panel of the unit and the batteries live on the shelf with the charger and battery for the trimmer we were given years ago. This gives us a nice, convenient way to store and charge the batteries.</p><p></p>The next thing we decided to make was a storage unit to fit between the freezer and washing machine.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOIFNcKEt1OwFsVcQITWBCscPyZwmTgd1hvU2sn_KkftJPBxi6-E3e-uhc5fsS67Ogg6KcCrc04wDQwBTisukrE1V4EOnQxFaVqqoHsSCLwme4AytUTNLCpM-NWSmy23NSQUW3w/s2048/73FDB8CE-997F-4B20-9330-CD3BC6B40F0B.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOIFNcKEt1OwFsVcQITWBCscPyZwmTgd1hvU2sn_KkftJPBxi6-E3e-uhc5fsS67Ogg6KcCrc04wDQwBTisukrE1V4EOnQxFaVqqoHsSCLwme4AytUTNLCpM-NWSmy23NSQUW3w/w150-h200/73FDB8CE-997F-4B20-9330-CD3BC6B40F0B.heic" width="150" /></a></div>Nothing too complicated, just a pull-out unit with storage for washing powder, water softener etc. Again pocket holes were used to secure the bottom to the front and back panels, and 30mm brad nails for the rails. <br /><p></p><p>I found some old castors from a previous project and a handle from a wardrobe I dismantled 8 years ago. The wood from the wardrobe was used to build a cupboard to hide some pipes and to construct one of my benches, so nothing goes to waste if we can help it!</p><p>Once finished, the unit slides nicely between the two appliances.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgybKHH7yZB0q-6RPaKT4nk_IKadEhEom7VGn75qm0K8xDGI3jMR1qWJMw4FrcEHHuFsP1mumcbaQcJBfj-rwV5Zx_MHIfVWP_1BSJuVmay3pJwf1WWhtqpM1vR_9DMPnud77dxvQ/s2048/FE98A75D-BD5E-42C3-9B0E-941B18C4423E.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgybKHH7yZB0q-6RPaKT4nk_IKadEhEom7VGn75qm0K8xDGI3jMR1qWJMw4FrcEHHuFsP1mumcbaQcJBfj-rwV5Zx_MHIfVWP_1BSJuVmay3pJwf1WWhtqpM1vR_9DMPnud77dxvQ/w150-h200/FE98A75D-BD5E-42C3-9B0E-941B18C4423E.heic" width="150" /></a></div>The next job will be to sort out the rest of the storage, making better use of the space. We might even be able to get into the cupboards currently buried behind the stuff we haven't sorted out yet!!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /> <br /><br /><br /><br /><p></p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-58232862659255264392021-01-26T09:42:00.008+00:002021-01-26T09:42:55.802+00:00Making routed panels for drawer cabinets without a router!<p></p>I wanted to do a quick post about making panels with rebates in them without using a router. You still need at least a circular saw, but if you don't have a router you can make these panels using two layers of material. <div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT10XHO6iyFM_S7607WgS3b0Ri2JdsVY4qRM21jMOoplamAw1DcpRhgxTwpnet39zSsDng7L09ixG7FmwqK3DA-tNkPCH9qv-E7U4KU96tK2HdWLBU1Nwubc9wqbQxSnuTLYY92A/s2048/B6D6F063-735F-487D-9218-173E4C4383D6.heic" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT10XHO6iyFM_S7607WgS3b0Ri2JdsVY4qRM21jMOoplamAw1DcpRhgxTwpnet39zSsDng7L09ixG7FmwqK3DA-tNkPCH9qv-E7U4KU96tK2HdWLBU1Nwubc9wqbQxSnuTLYY92A/w150-h200/B6D6F063-735F-487D-9218-173E4C4383D6.heic" width="150" /></a></div></div><div>I chose 9mm and 6mm MDF because I had some in the workshop. 12 and 6 or two pieces of 9mm would give you an 18mm thick panel which would be the standard thickness I use to build cabinets.</div><div><br /></div><div>I cut my base layer (9mm board) to the height of the finished panel (800mm) and to the width of two panels plus a bit of waste (1200mm). The 6mm sheet was cut into 1200mm by 74mm strips. I've posted before about how I used a saw board with a circular saw to make treatable cuts.</div><div><br /></div><div>You need to make some spacers for assembly and I made mine 14mm wide. Just cut one piece long enough to split into three. Oh and I cut a 20mm wide strip to go on the bottom of the panel as a starting point. This also allows me to use an 18mm thick base or stretcher at the bottom and it leaves a 2mm gap to the bottom runner.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlM-gL47ZBQffi2dqsqKg3wxlfnz0CA7Dc-ip3rG8tIqa-dr-iIuhlheL1nWpWea9epNvubl-yGCCRCJ_iSK4YzCcYFKc_1710SyHXcLa6wfzp92_V5ckzdX_BfEu_567Zmzo_hw/s2048/653D36BA-7488-4375-AE96-0C9B6D31F778.heic" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlM-gL47ZBQffi2dqsqKg3wxlfnz0CA7Dc-ip3rG8tIqa-dr-iIuhlheL1nWpWea9epNvubl-yGCCRCJ_iSK4YzCcYFKc_1710SyHXcLa6wfzp92_V5ckzdX_BfEu_567Zmzo_hw/w150-h200/653D36BA-7488-4375-AE96-0C9B6D31F778.heic" width="150" /></a></div>It was then a matter of using the spacers to position the 6mm strip, check it for square and glue and pin it in position. Move the spacers and repeat all the way up. Before you start pinning, mark up where you are going to cut the assembled panel into two pieces. I did this on the first 6mm board. This is where you don't want to put any pins! Saw blades don't like nails or screws.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once the glue is dry you can cut the panels to width and make your cabinet.</div><div><br /></div><div>So why 74mm? It just so happens that the cabinets I make to go under the benches work on an 88mm spacing so 74mm with a 14mm gap gives me 88mm. Of course it doesn't work with the 800mm panels, but they were made to fit into a different bench. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you don't want to use that much 6mm board, you could rip it to say 20mm wide and then use a wider spacer to position it. The starting point is to work out the internal height of the cabinet and then work out how many drawers you can fit in the space. I make my drawers from 12mm material, so I use a runner width of 14mm. </div><div><br /></div><div>Say I was building a cabinet with internal dimensions of 722mm, and I want to have space for 6 single height drawers in it. I subtract 2mm for the clearance at the bottom of the cabinet and divide 720 by 6. The gives me 120mm for each drawer space. A 14mm space for the runner leaves 106mm for the drawer. Then it's just a matter of cutting the runners and spacer to watch those measurements. Depending on how you make the drawer, you need to leave 2mm at the top so it doesn't bind on the drawer above.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitY9WTfkHCK7ndrAWW3Mjq7M0U9g_qhfzy2h3UoD8CGkH5SuM-hiT3TbJmhVe09bwOoxP3dOmjlhEPDy_R_K5PQyTdPRn9HtgAjuvbhe0R19y5R1fpNaO5QKzF5tgJ2oVryt9W_g/s4032/IMG_1791.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitY9WTfkHCK7ndrAWW3Mjq7M0U9g_qhfzy2h3UoD8CGkH5SuM-hiT3TbJmhVe09bwOoxP3dOmjlhEPDy_R_K5PQyTdPRn9HtgAjuvbhe0R19y5R1fpNaO5QKzF5tgJ2oVryt9W_g/w150-h200/IMG_1791.HEIC" width="150" /></a></div>These are trays rather than drawers but the principle is the same. It's basically a box with a base that runs in the slots in the side panel. Because these slots are made with a router they're a bit deeper than 6mm, but only by a 1-2mm. By sheer chance that meant the the sides of the drawers were 9mm in from the edge, so I cut a couple of 9mm spaces so I could position the sides in from the edge and then squaring it up to the front and back, I glued and pinned the base in place. <br /><div><br /></div><div>I might take some better photos of a drawer and see if I can explain it better, but it's essentially the same process that I used in an earlier post but without the rebates to square it all up.<p></p></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-53328965410630314192021-01-19T16:47:00.002+00:002021-01-19T16:47:44.675+00:00Over-engineering a hinge for a boom arm<p> Everyone who uses power tools to sand wood and uses some form of hose attachment for dust collection, knows what a pain it is dragging the hose and cable across the bench. It often catches and pulls off the tool or gets twisted up. Far better to have the power and use dropping from above.</p><p>There are lots of ways to do this. My solution was to build a boom arm that swings out across the work space. I thought this would be the easiest and neatest solution, but I didn't figure with the issues I'd face with the hinge system that allows the arm to swing. The weight of the arm and hose produces quite a force on the hinge, pulling it down and away. </p><p>I tired an ordinary butt hinge and a gate hinge, but neither worked well. I then made my own from threaded rod and 18mm ply, but that too wasn't able to support the arm as well as I wanted.</p><p>So I went for this:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcOF4O-Fvjppynx0Kwtoxzeb-O1i3CRCdJNkce6u6cfAFIc8Z413W3vCoR0ivb6f4moWZHOw-yC93mxXjeMr3vn6Hrn7fMnIxIEqlof4mBVHi41ZyFLxZ7sJrQSG7r-2wX04paxg/s2048/AB4E5B28-F9A3-4394-9546-BF546E0F3F78.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcOF4O-Fvjppynx0Kwtoxzeb-O1i3CRCdJNkce6u6cfAFIc8Z413W3vCoR0ivb6f4moWZHOw-yC93mxXjeMr3vn6Hrn7fMnIxIEqlof4mBVHi41ZyFLxZ7sJrQSG7r-2wX04paxg/w150-h200/AB4E5B28-F9A3-4394-9546-BF546E0F3F78.heic" width="150" /></a></div>This is it clamped together for a test fit. It's made from 18mm ply and rotates on a 20mm Aluminium tube shaft. The boom arm (made from 12mm and 6mm MDF in the arm of an I-beam) fits into a couple of slots.<div><br /></div><div>The hope is that the central shaft and the shape of the hinge will offer better support.</div><div><br /></div><div>I made a wall plate from more 18mm ply along with with a base and top plate for the shaft.<br /><p>I bolted the whole thing together with M6 bolts. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15QnwoKjqA0bOUpme0hPj1bDLRVWUoINAfkNx3Aop09O6Zczizzv9NSDPayGR2f0c9ZT5nJorfUdtFu1drPALRbr3Dj_LrWUBOM1RqUohsVN3AkKU3DG0rfJFFofcVIUc6ClmGQ/s2048/7740195E-D606-45ED-B280-3519C446FFDC.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15QnwoKjqA0bOUpme0hPj1bDLRVWUoINAfkNx3Aop09O6Zczizzv9NSDPayGR2f0c9ZT5nJorfUdtFu1drPALRbr3Dj_LrWUBOM1RqUohsVN3AkKU3DG0rfJFFofcVIUc6ClmGQ/w150-h200/7740195E-D606-45ED-B280-3519C446FFDC.heic" width="150" /></a></div>In order to make sure everything lined up, I used double-sided tape to assemble the hinge block with a piece of scrap where the boom would be fixed in place. I then counter-bored a 10mm hole in one side before drilling all the way through with a 7mm bit.<p></p><p>The 10mm hole is just the right side to allow the head of an M6 bolt to be driven in and head tight without splitting the ply. It's neater if you line the head uo with the grain, but it doesn't seem to make a big difference.</p><p>Once all the holes were drilled I separated the parts and then reassembled it with the boom arm in place and carefully drilled through the arm.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5H4ilkOqgK5VTBHuyNi2KlggnEKWITGJ5BvyryO87robXQRC-FO2Fa0T4wYaxEK2fttFCe7UMxpPse6VMMSlE4lwdhzWF0HJurosWBwoD-4wtT1dI5SYMRZ1FhPWXEwFJBGJndw/s2048/DF57C414-C4D7-453E-BAAE-F94F52937D53.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5H4ilkOqgK5VTBHuyNi2KlggnEKWITGJ5BvyryO87robXQRC-FO2Fa0T4wYaxEK2fttFCe7UMxpPse6VMMSlE4lwdhzWF0HJurosWBwoD-4wtT1dI5SYMRZ1FhPWXEwFJBGJndw/s2048/DF57C414-C4D7-453E-BAAE-F94F52937D53.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5H4ilkOqgK5VTBHuyNi2KlggnEKWITGJ5BvyryO87robXQRC-FO2Fa0T4wYaxEK2fttFCe7UMxpPse6VMMSlE4lwdhzWF0HJurosWBwoD-4wtT1dI5SYMRZ1FhPWXEwFJBGJndw/w150-h200/DF57C414-C4D7-453E-BAAE-F94F52937D53.heic" width="150" /></a>You'll see in the pictures that there are grooves. These are to take top the shape of the beam. To make it easy I added shims to the inner part of the beam so that everything clamped together nice an tightly.</p><p>The wall plate and other part of the hinge was again made from 18mm ply. This is all scrap wood I had around the place by the way.</p><p>20mm holes bored out using a spade bit and than all screws together with the bottom section glued in place but the top only screwed in to make dismantling a little easier if I every need to do that.</p><p>And there it is. It seems to work okay, although I might need to shim the wall plate because the wall in a little uneven. The hose and power cable is simply cable-tied to the arm and I can make connections as I need them. It works really well for both routing and sanding, so I'm pleased with the eventual outcome.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5C3cJHHGh_MXvTo40PnwB35pbuqIDWBrLkbcLVGtwv0XBSlPRoaSISvan3_I0zdeLKmq5U3ip7SJ7-96KXWj-9kYtX-G_M3PFMTQRTgERKtDaKe7l49fb3zaHYdQtQXc11X_8Q/s2048/A92E2831-EB51-45B5-BFB9-BBC4089475BC.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5C3cJHHGh_MXvTo40PnwB35pbuqIDWBrLkbcLVGtwv0XBSlPRoaSISvan3_I0zdeLKmq5U3ip7SJ7-96KXWj-9kYtX-G_M3PFMTQRTgERKtDaKe7l49fb3zaHYdQtQXc11X_8Q/s320/A92E2831-EB51-45B5-BFB9-BBC4089475BC.heic" width="320" /></a></div>The new thing I didn't take into account is that the roof slopes from to back which means that long ladder you can see is lower at the from of the photo than at the back. The arm just clears the front, but had I set it 5-10mm higher wouldn't have cleared the ladder and I would have had to take it off the wall and repositioned it. </div><div><br /></div><div>Thankfully I got away with it, but only just!<br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-73564077905664256752021-01-16T21:24:00.001+00:002021-01-16T21:24:40.870+00:00Building a flip-top tool cart<p> I've seen plenty of examples of flip-top carts and have thought about building one for a long time. I have a disc/belt sander that could do with a more permanent home and I have and simple drill press stand for my old Black and Decker Mains power drill bought back in 19879/80. I made a bigger table stand for the drill years ago, but that could do with improving.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeN4slAVHrZMnJh-Ak8uAMVCpE-S554nM0_gR338J3A9pjH57e-A37vKLszx2JgKeb7J2QLxfzNLC4WoymUShcWH-8fmtc08RA661JLIvLgJiTU8aRvSML3jpcO3Tjpnb60RXmA/s1000/Screenshot+2021-01-16+at+20.59.25.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="726" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeN4slAVHrZMnJh-Ak8uAMVCpE-S554nM0_gR338J3A9pjH57e-A37vKLszx2JgKeb7J2QLxfzNLC4WoymUShcWH-8fmtc08RA661JLIvLgJiTU8aRvSML3jpcO3Tjpnb60RXmA/s320/Screenshot+2021-01-16+at+20.59.25.png" width="320" /></a></div>So I did a quick drawing in Graphic of my design. I'm quite tall (1.90m) so I like my tools and benched to be a bit higher than most people. My benches are 90cm tall, so I designed this flip cart to be about the same.<p></p><p>The body is made from 18mm ply with space for a drawer. The top is made from two pieces of 18mm ply separated by 25mm, the diameter of the aluminium tube on which the top rotates.</p><p>The tube was more like 26mm or the drill bit was more like 24, either way it was too tight and needed adjusting. Not easy once the initial hole had been prepared. The moral of the story being don't drill the hole until you've got the tube!</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhipu4ET6TwDnJNIi56CHJUMD9fSwLE7XH9fFSJfR-w1w5TNWCv2n1iSBymqDeiWD3DmV8yk_GSyx07zELPkj995Axy-eyrClj_TtyjmQHaIxAS0DW8D3HtIHEYhQ1CXq2FshWmuw/s2048/E330AFD9-8A46-4A75-B068-A1BF4B4A3D54.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhipu4ET6TwDnJNIi56CHJUMD9fSwLE7XH9fFSJfR-w1w5TNWCv2n1iSBymqDeiWD3DmV8yk_GSyx07zELPkj995Axy-eyrClj_TtyjmQHaIxAS0DW8D3HtIHEYhQ1CXq2FshWmuw/s320/E330AFD9-8A46-4A75-B068-A1BF4B4A3D54.heic" /></a></div>Apart from that it all came together nicely. I used 50mm bolt catches on the four corners to lock the top in place. <p></p><p>In order to get them lined up I installed the catches on one face then flipped the top and added the bit that receives the the bolt on the other side. I then added the other catches using the receiving bit to set the position of the bolt.</p><p>I didn't bother with any fancy drawer slides, just waxed the bottom of the drawer itself.</p><p>The belt sander is bolted to the top. I used M6 bolts. I counter-bored from the inside just enough to be able to hammer the bolts in. The drill press was just screwed down.</p><p>The top rotates easily and it's already been put to use. There drill press was tucked away in ne corner of the bench and often had accumulated bits and pieces on it, making it a pain to get out and set up. Now four bolts, a quick spin, and it's already for use. </p><p><br /></p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-92101754073775077042021-01-16T20:52:00.000+00:002021-01-16T20:52:38.549+00:00More storage and workshop projects<div class="separator"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaPMyeGtoZ0GuqFXuQ5NZyaGKC6ueX-9nquKvajDrxRIvlJDpGoW2bs3QMGO9YIzSvHeC5RSHIFm5625PA-y2PAvnj2w27IrIv64NQGYyJhEd_qB7UenlRPmWmqivirFxLn2sMRQ/s2048/4AA19D86-F52F-4FB4-8565-1BBF66E9AF36.heic" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaPMyeGtoZ0GuqFXuQ5NZyaGKC6ueX-9nquKvajDrxRIvlJDpGoW2bs3QMGO9YIzSvHeC5RSHIFm5625PA-y2PAvnj2w27IrIv64NQGYyJhEd_qB7UenlRPmWmqivirFxLn2sMRQ/w150-h200/4AA19D86-F52F-4FB4-8565-1BBF66E9AF36.heic" width="150" /></a></div><p> SoI've busy in the workshop. I usually do a few things over Christmas, but we're also in lockdown again so there are more things I can work on. Using the same approach as I did for the storage unit I built a second but this time to had trays rather than drawers in it. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8uxvGRMvcPO4nwncmfcZqCK7sezY-R3ypJlVKwAGGKqqZ48Pw9Ip4Kqchcti0a4CRraxfVkhVi7yS2wP6ENH9Mba1K2wenpQBu_XEXtN51ZluWWlcX7U54VwpjYFBt0pSeejJcw/s4032/IMG_1791.HEIC" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8uxvGRMvcPO4nwncmfcZqCK7sezY-R3ypJlVKwAGGKqqZ48Pw9Ip4Kqchcti0a4CRraxfVkhVi7yS2wP6ENH9Mba1K2wenpQBu_XEXtN51ZluWWlcX7U54VwpjYFBt0pSeejJcw/w150-h200/IMG_1791.HEIC" width="150" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The plastic box in the bottom was replace with two more trays and then I made boxes for nuts, bolts, hinges etc. Although these units are made from MDF, they slide really easily after an application of wax to the runners and slides. </p><p>The boxes were made from 6mm MDF and hardboard simply glued together and held in shape with some tape while the glue dried. No pins. </p><p>I made different sizes but always in multiples of a basic square. That way they can be rearranged within the tray.</p><p>The next problem I wanted to try and solve was dust collection from tools used on the bench. Think sanders and track saw.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-jRLI-PgKkZaL_JOBTeI7OAJcyqbaVgcXepzgax6t9rkLxwPSJKhC3ljrpK5XQhZRAzLyxSz0yaOR0DyWJw4d3VdY19MlphOIKG2iriKP1HY7FdrMckwUKtBWLCQUF8-qLhgkA/s4032/IMG_1800.HEIC" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-jRLI-PgKkZaL_JOBTeI7OAJcyqbaVgcXepzgax6t9rkLxwPSJKhC3ljrpK5XQhZRAzLyxSz0yaOR0DyWJw4d3VdY19MlphOIKG2iriKP1HY7FdrMckwUKtBWLCQUF8-qLhgkA/w200-h150/IMG_1800.HEIC" width="200" /></a></div>I watched a few videos of folk making boom arms and some using hooks, rings and string lines. All of them worked and I decided on an arm.<p></p><p>I thought it would be interesting to make my own I-beam from 6 & 12mm MDF that's lying around the place. </p><p>The length was simply the longest pieces I had available, about 1200mm. Having cut some grooved using the table saw it was just a matter of glue and clamps to put it together. A bit of on-the-fly design and I had a hinge bracket and wall mount. </p><p>A piece of hose and a power cable were simply cable tied to the arm and it was ready to go. It works quite well, although the hinge could be better. I might redesign that later. I don't have any photos of the boom arm.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMhv3gke5CwEqP-L41d4-xwa9Dav3yEzLrc8c6MGaXVgg9bWe-0dHSrNbpB-DuZdrOIL9HgUjFTCGvzjQaoG4OkxXXILjs0Vo1DAzIjoXKEt5eifr6hOHiN0HUJJlBy92UQhRPMg/s2048/AEA1F852-2D8D-4C8B-884D-FCE5646F96EF.heic" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMhv3gke5CwEqP-L41d4-xwa9Dav3yEzLrc8c6MGaXVgg9bWe-0dHSrNbpB-DuZdrOIL9HgUjFTCGvzjQaoG4OkxXXILjs0Vo1DAzIjoXKEt5eifr6hOHiN0HUJJlBy92UQhRPMg/w150-h200/AEA1F852-2D8D-4C8B-884D-FCE5646F96EF.heic" width="150" /></a></div>I came across Woby Design and downloaded the plans for his camera mount. Working in metric measurements meant a few adjustments to drill sizes to use metric bolts rather than imperial. Plus a camera mount is a 1/4" thread, but I found a ball head mount that had two M4 threaded inserts.<p></p><p><br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhleaBzo2PrNdDJcGvQ3NJ0M2RpqDfzcerZztity2UaXyHX8xbY2o_nzgtj9oZCyq5Cw28mYksEvnpTAoQMnFMnyr-Ni5YQ7XtSIvW6oE3CpVpR8yP-O6E23D3rnU-O2_6LsoC3xw/s2048/4C7ACF9F-2585-48EF-8EA4-88DF5884EEFB.heic" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhleaBzo2PrNdDJcGvQ3NJ0M2RpqDfzcerZztity2UaXyHX8xbY2o_nzgtj9oZCyq5Cw28mYksEvnpTAoQMnFMnyr-Ni5YQ7XtSIvW6oE3CpVpR8yP-O6E23D3rnU-O2_6LsoC3xw/w150-h200/4C7ACF9F-2585-48EF-8EA4-88DF5884EEFB.heic" width="150" /></a></div><p></p>My workshop is in a garage. It's about 5mx3m with a concrete floor that's cold and hard on the knees when you've been standing for a long time. I didn't want to move everything out so I laid a rubber mat-like tiled floor. I used something called Assemblemat. It's a bit soft for a workshop floor even though they say it can be used in a garage. If have to do it again I'll use something like Duramat. Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-36541507802386551502021-01-12T16:04:00.003+00:002021-01-12T16:04:27.321+00:00Star decorations from oak flooringIn the run up to Christmas I came across some designs for star decorations.
Using some scrap oak flooring and some scrap from a shed I built, this is what I made. There are more!<div><br /></div><div>I used three basic designs. An overlap style, an open star and a smaller closed version made from the offcuts of the open design.<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhvpa3h9I33xyK6Gg4aKfnuz8BY_qlqpA9oTMYwj6GV-D4dYCDv0MQ5SBfQyEY4cSycXaamZj3LzoWkrB07bWTHA9XOzLXnKBg-30E6k6ls1idfcXYLYkh0FURLAK_vj6weFltEw/s4032/IMG_1802.HEIC" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhvpa3h9I33xyK6Gg4aKfnuz8BY_qlqpA9oTMYwj6GV-D4dYCDv0MQ5SBfQyEY4cSycXaamZj3LzoWkrB07bWTHA9XOzLXnKBg-30E6k6ls1idfcXYLYkh0FURLAK_vj6weFltEw/s320/IMG_1802.HEIC" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9BA7s49GX3n3BqAJ-xzIIsX1jWNGmTCqvdoCYwRPil1ZjiQh1RUIvV-ba9GMHwHWUJ6teNT8ON6958Xox1H5aayk-DLpOHTSyCRteaJIR2WezTUuYJqzxA8v5mnWArsjH6ftizQ/s4032/IMG_1812.HEIC" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9BA7s49GX3n3BqAJ-xzIIsX1jWNGmTCqvdoCYwRPil1ZjiQh1RUIvV-ba9GMHwHWUJ6teNT8ON6958Xox1H5aayk-DLpOHTSyCRteaJIR2WezTUuYJqzxA8v5mnWArsjH6ftizQ/s320/IMG_1812.HEIC" /></a> <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYc5PTFtARxnNgGUJW6qHWHRR5f41RYhsY0mxrOVE-XK0U96pbXEr3PIwsi8k1o9s56koxRgqJTkoXdiB5XXbbKfqbL94jfHMqC6wRnmtmYKm7yYBoKwYt1cBt-2LFMpWlS-hFw/s4032/IMG_1801.HEIC" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYc5PTFtARxnNgGUJW6qHWHRR5f41RYhsY0mxrOVE-XK0U96pbXEr3PIwsi8k1o9s56koxRgqJTkoXdiB5XXbbKfqbL94jfHMqC6wRnmtmYKm7yYBoKwYt1cBt-2LFMpWlS-hFw/s320/IMG_1801.HEIC" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7YGFQRuCOd9QaEwKsATQNFrQd70A-UDzxgHN5S3Lw75EfNhxfdbomfdJADv7K9POBFsM10WwKfxu0oit46iaio3gITbe465eiIbMKPvEgOlokM5p0miIfmi3J5fGZN_DmNHx2lA/s4032/IMG_1814.HEIC" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7YGFQRuCOd9QaEwKsATQNFrQd70A-UDzxgHN5S3Lw75EfNhxfdbomfdJADv7K9POBFsM10WwKfxu0oit46iaio3gITbe465eiIbMKPvEgOlokM5p0miIfmi3J5fGZN_DmNHx2lA/s320/IMG_1814.HEIC" /></a></div><p></p></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-48675452100858489052020-12-01T11:19:00.000+00:002020-12-01T11:19:19.318+00:00Latest storage project for the workshop<p> I've followed Ron Paulk on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEaIzMzCEkTy547iHSs2xUg">YouTube</a> for a long time, ever since I first came across his workbench. If you haven't seen Ron's innovative SMART Woodshop then you need to set aside some time to watch him build a complete workshop into a trailer. The way he builds his drawer system is the inspiration behind this project and a previous drawer unit build. </p><p>My goal for my workshop is fairly simple:</p><p>1. Be able to find the stuff I need by being better organised.</p><p>2. Get rid of all the tool boxes I'd accumulated. </p><p>My goals for myself include:</p><p>1. Learning new ways of doing things.</p><p>2. Build better stuff.</p><p>3. Have fun in the workshop.</p><p>So this project involved getting rid of a tool box that has all my spanners and plumbing tools in it (well almost all); providing some storage for jig making bits and my large spring clamps that were sitting in a cardboard box.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-avGyDaPraq4ennKhlpl3zjkEqwpv7W9zyp0z6tp73FKhZzXKvvV_xIxUnfbCIZfrW4qyFPob-FzHL0RnUih5EfRHh-Ao4l92YHN54Gco_07m1ymaL4ZPo6Ljf5LX4YaPHnxxkg/s2048/D9C4C895-C0B7-41F2-BD03-8154F5756532.heic" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-avGyDaPraq4ennKhlpl3zjkEqwpv7W9zyp0z6tp73FKhZzXKvvV_xIxUnfbCIZfrW4qyFPob-FzHL0RnUih5EfRHh-Ao4l92YHN54Gco_07m1ymaL4ZPo6Ljf5LX4YaPHnxxkg/s320/D9C4C895-C0B7-41F2-BD03-8154F5756532.heic" /></a></div>Having cut a piece of 18mm mdf to an appropriate size for the two sides, I began to layout some guides to rout the rebates for the drawers to slide in. (I had lots left over from another project. Normally I'd have used plywood for this, but the mdf was taking up space so it got used).<div><br /></div><div>There was a complicated bit of maths needed because the bushes for the router are imperial and the cutters are metric. But the principle is easy enough. Once you know the offset of the outer edge of the bush and the outer edge of the cutter, you can work out how far apart the guides need to be in order to give your the correct width of rebate. In my case I needed my guides to be 10mm further apart than the rebate width.</div><div><br /></div><div>It's important to take you time setting this all up nice and square and parallel. To keep the spacing correct I cut a couple spacer blocks and I pinned the guide pieces using 20mm brads.</div><div><br /></div><div>Running the router up one side and down the other the rebates were cut quickly and neatly. I do have a jig I made for cutting rebates which I could have used, but getting it in the right position each time would probably have been slower than doing it this way. If I had a lot of cabinets to make I'd make a jig the same way Ron does in his videos.</div><div><br /></div><div>Having cut the rebates I cut the two sides to width and then cut the top and the bottom for the carcass. It's important to note here that the bottom of the carcass goes inside the sides where's theta goes on top. Look closely at this photo and you'll see what I mean.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzO1fGjudnWh9Kx2ApZvt_CJ6ILtouZrX_35gHFO9IALoUSfV1w3O1ztHSsoYYDR_V9vauamR489uvioSNiPd5cAQiKt5uASmWbYJTj_VOrZlXPrrp9o3n_aa2m_F-gXdPMI4ZUQ/s2048/1524E4C5-ADF7-48A6-9FAB-984E82AB2BA5.heic" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzO1fGjudnWh9Kx2ApZvt_CJ6ILtouZrX_35gHFO9IALoUSfV1w3O1ztHSsoYYDR_V9vauamR489uvioSNiPd5cAQiKt5uASmWbYJTj_VOrZlXPrrp9o3n_aa2m_F-gXdPMI4ZUQ/s320/1524E4C5-ADF7-48A6-9FAB-984E82AB2BA5.heic" /></a></div>Using some scraps I checked my measurements for the drawer bases and the width of the drawers themselves. Next I cut a base to check the fit and when that was okay I cut 5 more and checked they all fitted in each slot.<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ltFP5h2b40qWH_yokrQ9-H1i5kGytqdQOngSt6wZb_LA8zK07FKGGlcdjY8kmuX6N57W1FVsMxBelHOAcUqncM1WV4kWjtJ0Lr7xhhXKkPCJSwnpkdLCDr8e8rAjNdkoORGM_g/s2048/1805E8F9-7A5D-410C-B61F-9F45B3742B55.heic" style="clear: right; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ltFP5h2b40qWH_yokrQ9-H1i5kGytqdQOngSt6wZb_LA8zK07FKGGlcdjY8kmuX6N57W1FVsMxBelHOAcUqncM1WV4kWjtJ0Lr7xhhXKkPCJSwnpkdLCDr8e8rAjNdkoORGM_g/s320/1805E8F9-7A5D-410C-B61F-9F45B3742B55.heic" /></a><div><br /><br />With that done I cut some shallow rebates in the bases (3mm deep) to serve as guides when putting the drawers together. They help keep the drawer square as you glue them together. Again I used 20mm brads to pin the corner joints and then to pin the base to the sides. The front and back of the draw sit inside the sides so that you pin through the sides into the front.</div><div><br /></div><div>Everything was test fitted before final assembly and I also cut a back panel for the unit from 9mm mdf and glued and pinned that to the carcass. I did thing about rebating the back to inset the panel but this is only a. workshop cabinet after all!</div><div><br /></div><div>I made some simple handle from scrap, but to be honest I don't think mdf will be strong enough to last long term and I'll either make some from hardwood or just buy some. In my other build I cut hand pulls, but I wanted to try something different this time.</div><div><br /></div><div>The deep drawer doesn't have to go at the bottom, it fits in all the slots except of course the vey top one. If I ever get to kit out a new workshop I'll make sure all my drawer cabinets are built to a consistent size so that any drawer will fit any cabinet. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPPSg4pn08huiaZFeMLN4xLD7FxXXZs6InZooZAcukXu0Wp4HEY8XIdr0mAuWiKXClgGiHdvYPAw3U8APeRNbvI8LkK9DqHLStiUjnn-dqvMl9NOWOAdBWl-wJePgaD8Ws6S0m-Q/s2048/IMG_1786.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPPSg4pn08huiaZFeMLN4xLD7FxXXZs6InZooZAcukXu0Wp4HEY8XIdr0mAuWiKXClgGiHdvYPAw3U8APeRNbvI8LkK9DqHLStiUjnn-dqvMl9NOWOAdBWl-wJePgaD8Ws6S0m-Q/s320/IMG_1786.jpeg" /></a></div>Here's the finished unit installed in the bench and with dividers in the drawer to separate the contents. These were made very simply. The dividers and spaces were cut to give a snug fit. To keep them in place the spacers had a strip of double-sided on the back. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm pretty pleased with the way this one turned out. In a space where there was a metal toolbox and little else I know have all the extra storage for bits and pieces. Eventually I may label the drawers but for the time being I at least know it's in a drawer, whatever it might be!!<br /><div><br /></div><div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-65632263251128307252020-11-20T10:01:00.005+00:002020-12-01T18:00:39.766+00:00Trimming out the new roof windows<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-mK9lSuGJm5sEP-_sCoV1XTWqrcNbG9mM2DQwkKHkKgZEVt5BDwz9AjrlbjIAT3rR-Qk3-5xQttiI_ZFkGejIxW0qIt60WV-lqfpXjYDoimQDYFlIeeMyFxP5_DzX3aLxWnd3lA/s4032/IMG_1763.HEIC" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-mK9lSuGJm5sEP-_sCoV1XTWqrcNbG9mM2DQwkKHkKgZEVt5BDwz9AjrlbjIAT3rR-Qk3-5xQttiI_ZFkGejIxW0qIt60WV-lqfpXjYDoimQDYFlIeeMyFxP5_DzX3aLxWnd3lA/w193-h200/IMG_1763.HEIC" width="193" /></a></div> We had some new roof windows fitted and I decided I wanted to trim them out rather than have the window fitters do it. There were moments when I began to regret the idea, but in the end we got it done and it doesn't look to bad. <p></p><p>The problem was that whoever did the original windows didn't seem to like the idea of perpendicular and square. In fact one is so far out of square that in the end it wasn't worth the effort to try to put that right. </p><p>The decision now is whether to leave them as they are, maybe applying a clear wax or varnish, or whether to paint them. I think paint, Anne thinks leave. Time will tell.<br /></p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-71598413596107784262020-11-20T09:53:00.005+00:002020-11-20T09:53:51.572+00:00How much of sport is played in the head?<p> I played tennis a few months ago. Just a practice hit with another player followed by some points. We played a game we call "21". Each player serves 5 points and then the serve changes. The winner is whoever gets to 21 first or if it's 21-21 then you play a tie-break to 2 points clear.</p><p>Unlike traditional scoring you're never really out of the game until it's over, which keeps it competitive to the end unless one player gets way ahead and the other can't claw it back. It makes for an interesting mental challenge. Every 5 points of serving or receiving feels like a mini-game within the game. Can you make inroads on your opponents serve? Can you be secure on your own serve? If you can win the 5 point battles you will win the game.</p><p>So here's the breakdown of the game in 5 point groups. The first numbers reflect the cumulative score, the numbers in brackets are each 5 point exchange. As the game progresses it's not just about wining and losing points but about strategies, patterns and a mind set that gets you through the game.</p><p>2-3 (2-3); 4-6 (2-3); 6-9 (2-3); 9-11 (3-2); 12-13 (3-2); 16-14 (4-1); 19-16 (3-2); 21-18 (2-2)</p><p>I served first but didn't make the best of starts and after three rounds was 3 points down. But it was close and I won the next two exchanges to get to within a point. Then I won 4-1 in what looks like a decisive moment in the game to go 16-14 up. </p><p>But the crucial point actually came next when my opponent made a great return and a mishit to take the next two points and now we're 16-16. For me this was a significant moment. Having got myself back into the game and then in front the next point could undo all that work. I won the point and the next one to make it 18-16. Now I had one more serve left in this set of 5 points and I knew that if I lost it that would mean a single point difference but if I win it I'd be 3 points up and possibly more importantly my opponent would need to win all 5 of his service points to win the game. Keeping your mind clear and focussed in these situations is hard and even at the level at which I play it's important to keep your head in the game and have a plan. </p><p>At 19-16 I know all I need is a single point to take it to a tie-break, but I also only need 2 points to win and anything less than 4-1 for my opponent isn't going to keep him in the game. So all the pressure is on him to win points and my strategy is to make sure he has to win the point rather than me giving it away. </p><p>At this point both of us have to trust our technique. If I become defensive and cautious I could easily give up points and the same is true for my opponent. We exchanged points and I managed to win the match.</p><p>What's interesting in all this is how much of the game is played in your head. When you're as evenly matched as we were it might come down to a lucky mishit or a great serve, but even at our level being able to execute a plan under pressure is vital. Hit and hope will only get you so far, you have to have a strategy. </p><p>Let me give you a simple example. From the Ad-court my typical serve is to swing it out wide (I'm left-handed) with as much work on the ball as I can get. Everyone who plays me regularly knows it's coming. I know that if I execute it well then 95% of the time I'll win the point. I know they know it's coming, so the only thing I'm thinking about when I step up to serve is get the process right, execute the plan. If they get a good return, fair enough. I can't afford to worry about what they do with ball and start second guessing where to serve, I just need to focus all my attention on what I'm doing. If I get it right the outcome takes care of itself. </p><p>But here's the thing, and I don't think I'm alone in this. For a moment, as you walk towards the baseline, ball in hand or bouncing it nervously as you walk, every scenario runs through your head. That's the point at which you make a choice. You either rehearse everything that could go wrong and focus upon that, or you choose to rehearse everything that you've practised. </p><p>As we chatted after the game I asked my opponent what he was thinking at the crucial stages. His reply was interesting. His thought was that he was going to lose. Having been in front and having lost the lead, his overriding thought was about losing. Having caught up and gone in front, my thought was that I could go on and win this now. </p><p>I suspect that had the roles been reversed I might also have thought more about losing than winning, but I've tried to learn to put those thoughts away because they interfere with my process. In fact thinking of either winning or losing, although it happens all the time, can disrupt your ability to play. You must focus on the next task.</p><p>So did I win because I had better technique, better mental focus, more matchplay experience, more self-belief (I hadn't lost to him before) or a combination of al these factors? Who knows. But the more I play the more I understand that when you'r evenly matched what goes on in your head can make a difference to the way you play and ultimately to the outcome.</p>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-51713626962036626322020-11-20T08:47:00.002+00:002020-11-20T08:47:11.143+00:00Why do I keep practising?The simple answer is that I want to get better. I want to be more competitive. Yes, I want to win, but there is more. I like learning. I like trying to improve. I don’t like settling. I could just play social tennis at an achievable level, but that’s not enough. I need to push a bit harder. <div><br /></div><div>Take the other Tuesday for example. At Club Night I could have settled for playing doubles all evening. I’d worked quite hard in the morning squad session and playing singles is tough, especially when you’re the oldest there by maybe two decades! But the doubles was frustrating because the challenge wasn’t there. It’s fun, but the way I want to try and play doubles is, well, more aggressive, get to the net, attack the ball doubles and having my partner standing in the back half of the court and backing off volleys doesn’t work for me. </div><div><br /></div><div>So I ended up opting for a singles match against someone who is probably 20 years younger than me, a lot fitter than me and very fast around the court. I would not be able to out run him so I would need a strategy if I was going to use my superior technical ability against his ability to keep the ball in play. In the end it doesn't matter how technically correct or pretty your strokes are if you don't win the points. Sometimes you have to win ugly as they say!</div><div><br /></div><div> The plan was simple. Start well. Apply early pressure and build a lead so that if I ran out of energy after long rallies I had room to recover and a margin of error. Keep the points short and if we got into an extended rally control it if I could by keeping him in one corner. If he started to run then I would probably have to run too because the ball would not be under control. His ability to keep the ball alive would have put me under pressure, but if I controlled the rally, he would have to rally the ball and not make errors.</div><div><br /></div><div>This is why I practise. I practise so that I can trust my ability to play the shot when I most need to. If you look at the statistics for top level tennis you discover one simple fact: most points are not won by hitting glorious winners, they're won by errors made from the other side of the net. In fact even on the professional tour about 66% of points come from errors. At my level I think it's possibly higher, although our lack of movement and ability to read the game may mean we make space for winners from the other side. I don't know. I do know that if you average more than 1.5 errors a game you are probably going to lose the match.</div><div><br /></div><div>So practice is important if it enables you to reduce your error count in match play. </div><div><br /></div><div>Back to the match. My plan worked well to start with and made a good start, keeping the error count low and building a lead. I did begin to run out of steam but I stayed focussed and won in the end. It could have gone the other way and plenty have, but this one went to plan and that makes all the effort on the practice court worthwhile</div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-14839192082801319422020-07-04T09:30:00.000+00:002020-07-04T09:30:03.754+00:00Refining and modifying the fence stopHaving designed and printed the fence stop for my simple fence system, I decided that I could refine it and also build a flag stop. There were a few things that I needed to think about and it took several iterations before I got what I thought was a workable design. I use Tinkercad because it's easy and simple. But it is limited, and if you need to disassemble something and make a change, it can sometimes throw everything out. I'd like to get to grips with a better CAD programme, but I've struggled with Fusion 360 to grasp the concepts and methods.<div><br /></div><div>So, here's a screenshot of my Tinkercad design.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhot6qC1wj4TnASbjiUGYFduS6d-XHJuBje4gWoXgCnyfEmPcJGl2BxxQBPRGBQJ_ZHzmcGYSqTI0VWANZyvEbyEptABKT3xUq7fsNZ-YCByNFmeWN1D9ewLsUs_K6obkXyvt3Jhg/s1488/Screenshot+2020-07-02+at+18.56.21.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1066" data-original-width="1488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhot6qC1wj4TnASbjiUGYFduS6d-XHJuBje4gWoXgCnyfEmPcJGl2BxxQBPRGBQJ_ZHzmcGYSqTI0VWANZyvEbyEptABKT3xUq7fsNZ-YCByNFmeWN1D9ewLsUs_K6obkXyvt3Jhg/s320/Screenshot+2020-07-02+at+18.56.21.png" width="320" /></a></div><div>I took the basic stop and added tongues to help guide the stop in the aluminium track. Since this version I've made the gp smaller to see if that helps keep the T-nut from turning when you try to locate it in the track. </div><div><br /></div><div>The flag stop has a simpler block with a hole and recess for a hex nut in one end. The idea being that you can glue or friction fit an M5 nut or bolt head in it. </div><div><br /></div><div>By chance the hole behind the hex recess in the end is tight enough to screw an M5 bolt straight in, so no nut needed. But it might work loose over time so a refinement is probably needed.</div><div><br /></div><div>At the moment I'm printing a new version with a recess about 6mm in for the end to take a nut dropped in form the underneath.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicOaV__PXio54sfMAYe_0kykjdbEztPdvcdyZUGzz-4c1Tovidht4ndMXLAA1feRTblDs1sx-l9PSRrsgTrDUPkpeqD4sLt21cIHJVDvaf5GBP7KFAHDt9cFSMAKLl-ryO4cjwPw/s1024/Screenshot+2020-07-04+at+10.13.20.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="822" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicOaV__PXio54sfMAYe_0kykjdbEztPdvcdyZUGzz-4c1Tovidht4ndMXLAA1feRTblDs1sx-l9PSRrsgTrDUPkpeqD4sLt21cIHJVDvaf5GBP7KFAHDt9cFSMAKLl-ryO4cjwPw/s320/Screenshot+2020-07-04+at+10.13.20.png" /></a></div>If it works, then you could add a little epoxy to secure the nut in place but given you're not likely to keep undoing the the flag, it's probably not going to be necessary.</div><div><br /></div><div>In use the stops and flags seem quite sturdy. There's very little deflection in the flags</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbuTl-D1ZCWQPt5-IqlH3oFKwgr-fHVW_iO2PsArTx_27IYM-5cD4mqIr02ttZETJgZ2lrR6GQ9T5xZ4r2WtkC-HHoVUd0zRwlmTGxj0xLG4fdwVvvwQBeb0ZjMiZOcy2nt1nShQ/s1024/Screenshot+2020-07-04+at+10.13.20.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24216886.post-11649154005787205132020-06-28T15:37:00.000+00:002020-06-28T15:37:09.435+00:00Making a simple fence systemI needed to make a simple fence system for a new bench top I made. Some time ago I incorporated an MFT-style top into a bench in my workshop. This is a bench top with 20mm holes set in a 96mm pattern over the surface. It allows precise 90, 45, 30 & 60 deg cuts to be made and the square up assemblies and a whole host of other things. It's quite the versatile bench system.<div><br /></div><div>In the process of cutting some MDF for a project I had a rather large piece of 18mm left over, so I trimmed it to what I thought was a manageable size of 1800x900mm (turned out still to be rather heavy to carry around so not as 'portable' as I thought) and set about drilling it out in the 96mm pattern. I used the Parf Guide system and after a couple of hours I had a nice series of holes across the surface.<br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYLAe6wh75k5ZstgQYhZufZ7Mgn7QgZUAOH5M2jL0l_pXSx5FSPO92rJgyq15OgzDExEBL4bDi5iCwbGa7RphwiQsOpceRgFqeKOwz_dsqUUoiAPgihG62Wq4LfpcUcqkgRlD5KQ/s4032/NqQzIFuVQ8y4xzaMYsZ7ew.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYLAe6wh75k5ZstgQYhZufZ7Mgn7QgZUAOH5M2jL0l_pXSx5FSPO92rJgyq15OgzDExEBL4bDi5iCwbGa7RphwiQsOpceRgFqeKOwz_dsqUUoiAPgihG62Wq4LfpcUcqkgRlD5KQ/s320/NqQzIFuVQ8y4xzaMYsZ7ew.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirX2IWh_4-Gn8Fcvd6ciUcuqs5Jj2RnyYnRoUL0-D9ar-wlxOk3E_6M1uL4qDh72ND_1P6e_oqLX7xZ8e_aBIjAKQHXfV23BaYhmX9_aOQhvoPqDyFrFMQchhr5sr3vdmWbEe59A/s4032/ta24QRtnTCGExaMo8KTfig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirX2IWh_4-Gn8Fcvd6ciUcuqs5Jj2RnyYnRoUL0-D9ar-wlxOk3E_6M1uL4qDh72ND_1P6e_oqLX7xZ8e_aBIjAKQHXfV23BaYhmX9_aOQhvoPqDyFrFMQchhr5sr3vdmWbEe59A/s320/ta24QRtnTCGExaMo8KTfig.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I toyed with a few ideas for making a fence and in the end decided to use some aluminium extrusion. I'd used the same type of thing on the bench in the workshop. The question was did I buy some more of the fence-dogs for this fence or did I use the ones I already had-simply moving them from one been to the other-or did I make something new?</div><div><br /></div><div>Something new won the argument in my head so I made a prototype anchor that held the aluminium against a bench dog. I also made a simple sliding stop using MDF and some M5 track nuts and screw knobs.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTbupmMj_4iih-wfi3MlzTdVrm1pSKUE5vHVyunQ3JVqvnsM33X0AiAgpjQAESwp7ExURJG8TkerxpifUYtHCGWZod912oShbTgfPc_60EkneBSlwZ1FyfFQsjF7VR6DaCBQ0y1w/s4032/gaxPWUb2Rkm4GrpLCXrpNw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTbupmMj_4iih-wfi3MlzTdVrm1pSKUE5vHVyunQ3JVqvnsM33X0AiAgpjQAESwp7ExURJG8TkerxpifUYtHCGWZod912oShbTgfPc_60EkneBSlwZ1FyfFQsjF7VR6DaCBQ0y1w/s320/gaxPWUb2Rkm4GrpLCXrpNw.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>These worked quite well. They held the extrusion in place, pulling it firmly against the bench dog and it was nice and square to the rest of the bench. The only problem was that using MDF in this way to make the clams was not the best option. They just felt flimsy and I thought there must be a better solution. </div><div><br /></div><div>Then I remembered the 3D printer and got to work designing the parts for 3D printing.</div><div><br /></div><div>The end result is an effective clamping system and a smooth operating stop. I've drilled a couple of 20mm holes in my bench that houses my mitre saw so the fence can used there too.</div><div><br /></div><div>All in all I'm very pleased with the end result. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67PdIKJWh9JAfNaQd37q54eYoSNuE70SQ_p5tDz4qx6rLVfb3tqblVDgA3UzsF-ThkCcfqXkTU5Wcq5swzwj-Laipwp-Ti0TWoyNjA1RAWMZZUy1wtqhMBRCO6A3kyuESMaw3pQ/s4032/vOk5t%2525xOTK2fkzpbtO71%2525A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVh4j6zJNxhkWgJM6PmKO3VhZsfWAWbntDWgvAuIs_vhc40xzNN_A3F62qVBvAcnoygt1Q-rjg_ScNj2LcOnypeltXsIBHZUUs0EG4W11JZkbAkdb2z7a1pn6tHqVwRHZjavS7-Q/s1980/fullsizeoutput_1fe.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1599" data-original-width="1980" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVh4j6zJNxhkWgJM6PmKO3VhZsfWAWbntDWgvAuIs_vhc40xzNN_A3F62qVBvAcnoygt1Q-rjg_ScNj2LcOnypeltXsIBHZUUs0EG4W11JZkbAkdb2z7a1pn6tHqVwRHZjavS7-Q/s320/fullsizeoutput_1fe.jpeg" width="320" /></a><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67PdIKJWh9JAfNaQd37q54eYoSNuE70SQ_p5tDz4qx6rLVfb3tqblVDgA3UzsF-ThkCcfqXkTU5Wcq5swzwj-Laipwp-Ti0TWoyNjA1RAWMZZUy1wtqhMBRCO6A3kyuESMaw3pQ/s320/vOk5t%2525xOTK2fkzpbtO71%2525A.jpg" />I swapped the hex head bolts for some with hex sockets.<br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14877422243994973637noreply@blogger.com0